e set
in hems, etc., in the same manner.

[Illustration: DRAW TAPE FINISH FOR UNDER SKIRT]

[Sidenote: Drawing Tapes]

In finishing the top of an underskirt, many like to dispense with the
placket and fitted band. This may be done by using drawing tapes at the
back. The upper edge is faced with a piece of material which should be
bias in front to accommodate it to the curve, but may be straight across
the back. Work a button hole at each side of the back, insert a tape
through one button hole and draw it over an inch beyond the opposite one
and fasten securely by two lines of stitching across the tape. A second
tape is put through the other button hole and fastened in the same way.
By pulling the tape on each side the fullness may be adjusted.

[Sidenote: Bias Facings]

All facings around curves, such as arm holes and neck, should be a true
bias which is cut by holding the warp threads diagonally across the woof
threads. These strips for facings, pipings, ruffles, etc., should be cut
exactly even in width. All bands, ruffles, etc., of serge, twilled, or
diagonal materials should be cut _across_ the twill and not with it, in
order to have the ruffle hang well.

FASTENINGS

The standard fastenings are buttons and button holes, hooks and eyes or
hand made loops, lacings through rings and eyelet holes, loops over
buttons, and fancy frogs, clasps, studs, ball and socket, "notta-hooks,"
etc.

[Sidenote: Making Button Holes]

Button holes should be carefully measured and marked before cutting.
They should be a little longer than the diameter of the button for flat
buttons and one and one-quarter the diameter for round buttons. Having
decided upon the distance apart they are to be placed, cut a marker from
a piece of cardboard and measure off the space, marking with pins,
French chalk, pencil, or thread. The distance from the edge (one-fourth
inch), as well as the length of the button hole may also be marked with
the card. The scissors should be sharp, the hand must be steady, and the
cut should be made with one firm slash, not with two or three jerks.
Great care must be taken that each button hole is of the same length.
The goods should be cut to a thread, for it is impossible to make a neat
buttonhole if it is improperly cut. In cutting a round end buttonhole
for thick goods, a punch may be used for the end, after which the
remainder of the buttonhole is cut directly on a line with the center of
the circle.