No. 70 to No. 100 will be found satisfactory. Finer thread may be used
when the materials demand it, but no coarser than No. 50 should be used
in the machine and this only with the coarsest material.
[Sidenote: Fastening Threads]
Much time may be saved in fastening the threads at the ends of tucks,
hems on sheets, towels, etc., by careful manipulation of the machine.
For example, on sheets begin to stitch along the hem at the selvage, or
if the end of the hem is over-sewed, begin an inch from the edge and
stitch the hem towards the selvage, then lift the presser-foot so as to
turn the work, and retrace the bit of stitching, continuing across the
whole hem. When the end is reached, release the presser-foot, turn the
work, and stitch back for an inch or more in the same line, as was done
at the beginning of the hem. By this method the threads are fastened
much more easily and quickly than by drawing them through on to the
wrong side and tying or sewing them by hand and, of course, it is more
satisfactory than the "shop" way of cutting them off short. Tucks or
seams may be fastened in the same way. If fine thread is used the double
stitching at the ends is hardly noticeable.
[Sidenote: Bias Side Next Feed]
When stitching a seam having one bias and one straight side, let the
bias side come next to the feed, that is, on the underside. This is
especially important in thin materials. If the material is very sheer,
strips of soft paper--newspaper will answer for ordinary
purposes--should be sewed in the seam. This will insure a seam free from
puckers and when finished the paper can be pulled away easily.
[Sidenote: Stitching Gathers]
In sewing gathers on a band they should also come next the "feed," as it
takes up the side next to it a little faster than the upper side. When
the bias, or cross-way side of the seam, or gathers are next to the
"feed" the material runs along smoothly, but if the straight side is
towards it there is apt to be a pucker.
Stitching can be done more easily on the right of the presser foot with
the bulk of the material lying to the left. The tendency of the "feed"
or teeth is to crowd the work off the edge as well as forward and the
stitching may be guided better on the right side.
All straight seams should be stretched to the full extent of their
straight edge in stitching, as the work passes under the presser foot.
When a large amount of machine sewing is to be done--such as househ
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