tape on both sides and finished with a piece of material on the
outside. See illustration. This makes a strong and simple placket. When
a tape cannot be used, a hem or facing may be made on the under side of
the opening and a facing on the upper side, over which the on-set piece
is stitched. The on-set piece and facing may be cut from one piece, but
the fitting is more troublesome. In figured goods, the piece set on
should match the pattern exactly.

[Illustration: SKIRT PLACKET WITH LAP]

A simple placket for underwear is made from a single strip of the goods
put on like an extension hem. On drawers it may be turned in at the
buttonhole end, but not stitched down except at the band.

The placket of a skirt should have an underlap extending well below the
opening.

SEWING ON BANDS

[Sidenote: Gathering]

Divide the top of unhemmed edge of the garment in halves and mark with a
cross stitch, notch or pin. Gather from the placket to the middle of the
front gore, if a skirt, apron, or dress. Take a new thread and gather
the remainder. Put in a second gathering thread one-eighth to one-fourth
of an inch below the first. Two gathering threads are better than one
and they should be longer than the length of space to be gathered.
Stroke or lay the gathers above and below the threads. Divide the band
and pin the middle to the center of the garment, placing the right side
of the band on the wrong side of the garment. Pin in the middle and at
each end, secure the gathering threads by winding around the pin, adjust
the gathers, and baste between the gathering threads. Stitch just below
the line of basting. Fold the band over on the right side, press, baste
over the line of stitching, press again, then stitch on the right side
after having turned in both ends and over-sewed. Turn the _top_ of the
band over on the right side one-eighth or one-fourth of an inch and
stitch securely. This upper fold keeps the edge from wearing and
stretching and is a stay for children's skirts and drawers where button
holes are used and serves as a finish for the top of the band.

[Illustration: FINISHES

_a_--Bias Facing; _b_--Band on Gathers; _c_--Corded edge.]

For flannel, pleating or gathers may be used to put fullness into a
band. Two rows of gathering threads should be used and the stitches
should not be too fine. The band should be made of cotton or at least
lined with it to avoid clumsiness and prevent shrinking. Ruffles ar