in large letters in every sewing room, for much of the beauty of
the gown depends upon these three.

[Sidenote: Joining the Skirt]

To join the skirt, pin the side gores to the front gores, beginning at
the top, with pins running across the seams, then begin at the top of
the skirt and baste downward, allowing all unevenness to come out at the
bottom. Baste straight and evenly, taking one stitch at a time. Several
stitches should never be taken at once on thick or piled goods, as the
side next to the sewer is apt to be fuller in that case. When all seams
are basted, try on the skirt and make all changes necessary before
stitching. Both the outside skirt and any under or "drop" skirt should
be fitted as carefully as a waist.

[Sidenote: Lined Skirt]

If the skirt is to be lined the lining should be made and fitted first,
then ripped and the outside carefully basted on the lining, being well
stretched over the lining, care being taken to have the warp of the
outside and the lining run the same way. This will prevent the lining
from drawing the goods.

[Sidenote: Stitching Skirts]

A stitch of medium length should be used on all seams whether white
goods or cloth. If the stitch is too long, the seam will "gap" and will
show the thread; if too short, the seam is apt to draw. The line of
stitching must be absolutely parallel inside or outside of the basting
or the curve will be ruined. Use silk or the best cotton for stitching
skirts and be sure that the needle is not too coarse.

[Sidenote: Finishing Seams]

After stitching, all bastings along the seams should be taken out by
cutting the thread in several places. Never pull a basting the length of
the skirt. The seams should be opened and pressed according to
directions. The seams may be finished with a taffeta binding, overcast,
stitched flat or notched, as the case demands.

[Sidenote: Stiffening]

If stiffening is used at the bottom of a lined skirt it should be fitted
to each lining gore separately and securely stitched. A light weight
canvas should be stitched to a heavy cloth skirt at the bottom, if
several rows of stitching or braid are to finish the bottom of the
skirt.

[Sidenote: Placket]

The placket may be finished before the two back gores are pinned to the
front, if preferred. If done before joining the gores the placket can be
pressed better and the front is not so liable to be crushed. On the left
side of the skirt sew an underlap of sufficie