rn so there is no waste.
Cutting.
Removing and care of patterns.
Pinning, basting, or tacking of skirt to lining.
Joining of seams, fitting.
Stitching.
Pressing.
Finishing of seams and placket hole.
Making and putting on waist-band.
Marking length and finishing the bottom.
Fastenings, loops, braids, hooks and eyes.

[Sidenote: Lengthening or Shortening Patterns]

To lengthen or shorten a skirt pattern, measure the figure and regulate
the length of the patterns by making a fold in each gore two-thirds of
the way from the top of the pattern if too long. This is for the
simplest skirt pattern. The shape of the skirt may require two folds,
one two-thirds from the top and a small fold near the bottom to preserve
the outline.

If too short pin the pattern on the material, cut around the top of
gore and on each side two-thirds of the distance from the top of gore.
Unpin and draw the pattern down to the bottom and cut the required
length. Except for wash material, do not turn a gored skirt up at the
bottom to form a wide hem, as the fullness made by turning is hard to
dispose of neatly and the right curve at the bottom of the skirt may be
lost.

Another way to lengthen the pattern is to cut it in two, two-thirds the
distance from the top. See that all pleats or tucks are exactly the same
width and at the exact distance from the top or bottom of the gore, also
that all seams are of the right length. A shorter skirt must be
proportionately narrower.

[Sidenote: Testing Patterns]

It is well to test the skirt and waist patterns by using inexpensive
materials, such as calico, gingham, or cheap lining. Cut, baste, fit,
and make this as carefully as if it were the best cloth or silk. If the
skirt and waist are satisfactory, the pattern will do duty for several
seasons. The plain waist pattern is the foundation for _any_ waist and
many changes can be made easily with a well-fitting skirt and plain
waist pattern as a basis.

[Sidenote: Cloth Patterns]

As paper patterns soon wear out, after a waist and skirt have been
perfectly fitted, it is a good plan to cut an exact pattern of cambric,
both skirt and waist, tracing seams and notching the parts. This will
enable the home dressmaker to cut and make all ordinary dresses with
little trouble and with but one trying on. It is always well to try on
once, as materials differ in texture and a slight change may be
necessary.