ve the same amount of fullness at the top, and
that the plaits or gathers are equally distributed from front to back.
The sleeve should be held next to the worker and should lie easy from
seam to seam at the under arm. Baste with close, even stitches or back
stitch with coarse cotton or twist the same color as the waist. Stitch
in the sleeves on this line of basting, keeping the armholes curved
while the stitching is being done. Trim off edges and finish with
binding or close overcasting. The most careful binding is clumsy
compared to the overcast finish. Turn the seam toward the shoulder and
hem to the lining over the shoulders. This will do away with the
stand-up look that sleeves sometimes have.

[Sidenote: Finish at Wrist]

For the sleeve finished plainly around the wrist, a piece of bias
crinoline should be fitted at the hand. To do this, turn the sleeve
_right_ side out and slip the crinoline in the sleeve over the left hand
and adjust by moving the fingers until the crinoline shapes itself to
the sleeve perfectly, then pin and baste at the top and bottom. In this
way the crinoline will be neither too short nor too loose and all
wrinkling will be prevented. Turn the sleeve inside out and cut off the
crinoline one-fourth of an inch from the edge, keeping a perfectly true
edge, turn the sleeve over the crinoline, baste the outside part of the
sleeve and cat-stitch to the crinoline, then cat-stitch the crinoline to
the lining. Remove the lower basting and press. A bias strip of silk
sufficiently wide to cover the crinoline is hemmed at the lower edge and
to the sleeve lining just above the interlining. Whenever it is possible
to do so use the cat-stitch. It is a neat finish, easily and quickly
done, takes less time than hemming, besides being less bulky.

If the bottom of a coat sleeve is to be left open at the back or
slashed, an interfacing of light weight canvas will be necessary. Turn
the outside portion of the sleeve over the canvas, care being taken to
turn all corners at the slash, and curves, press and stitch, face after
the stitching is done. It may be stitched better if the back seam is
left open.

[Sidenote: Pressing Sleeves]

In the coat sleeve both seams are curved and should be pressed on a
curved board. A rocking chair inverted, with the rocker covered with
soft cloth, makes a good board on which to press the curved seams of a
sleeve.

COLLARS

The shaped, standing collar is worn with waists