ing fastenings in the skirt band. The
bottom edge of the waist may be finished by overcasting.

[Sidenote: Bottom Finish]

If it is desired to have the fullness cut away at the waist line in
front, determine the length, allowing sufficient for a blouse, gather
the waist at the bottom and sew the fullness on to a band. Sometimes
this band is carried entirely around the waist.

[Sidenote: Fit of Collar]

The fit of the collar or neck band is very important in any kind of a
waist. Both the front and the back may be cut higher than the pattern,
as it is easy to cut off in adjusting and more goods cannot be added.

To the unskilled the simplest garment is sufficiently difficult. It is
wiser to make two or three perfectly plain garments before attempting to
make an elaborate one.

After the pattern has been tested, fitted and all necessary changes
made, cut a pattern from the fitted waist of cambric or cheap _new_
muslin and mark or trace all seams. (Never use old, worn-out sheets from
which to cut a pattern.) After this permanent pattern has been made, do
not change a single line.

[Sidenote: Tucked Waist]

[Sidenote: Full Busted Waist]

If a plaited or tucked waist is to be made, all plaiting and tucking
should be done first, after which the same order of making is to be
followed for a plain waist. No waist should draw or strain across the
bust. This is especially important in tucked or pleated waists. To guard
against this tendency, a graduated tuck can be pinned on either side of
the front, beginning with nothing at the shoulders and widening at the
waist line. This is done before the pattern is cut and will allow for
especially full bust. The fold should be _on a thread_ of the goods.

LINED WAISTS

The plain, closely fitted, lined waist, with the curved back and side
forms is the most difficult to make and requires the greatest nicety in
handling from beginning to finish.

[Illustration: TYPICAL BODICE PATTERNS

(_a_) Front. (_b_) Under Arm Piece. (_c_) Side of Back. (_d_) Back.
(_e_) Collar. (_f_) Outside Sleeve. (_g_) Inside Sleeve.]

The pattern for a bodice of this kind should be of such a shape that in
each part the woof threads will go as straight around the waist as
possible. This makes the warp threads perpendicular and will give almost
a perfect bias on the current seams in the back. Do _not_ cut the side
forms out of _any_ piece that is big enough, without regard to the warp
and woof th