of all kinds and is
always a popular neck finish. In a close-fitting collar made of heavy
material an interlining of canvas or crinoline is necessary. The
interlining should be cut one-fourth of an inch smaller all around if
the collar is to be blind stitched to the waist. If it is to be sewed
to the neck, in a seam, the lining should be the same size as the collar
at the neck. Baste this interlining to the collar material, cut out the
corners of the material, and hem the extended portion to the
interlining. The interlining should always be cut bias, whether the
outside is bias or straight. Hem the collar lining to the collar.

[Sidenote: Putting on Collars]

To sew the collar to the neck of the garment, first pin, beginning at
the back seam and baste towards the end. The lining may be left free at
the lower edge and felled over the neck edge after the collar has been
stitched to the garment, or the lining may be stitched in the seam, the
seam pressed open and a bias facing of silk or light weight material
hemmed on over the seam.

The beauty of collars and cuffs depends largely upon the exact turning
of corners and finish of ends. These should never be left bulky or
clumsy. If preferred, the lining and outside of collar may be seamed and
turned. Place the right sides of outside and lining together, the
interlining next to the lining, stitch around both ends and top of
collar, then turn and press. These rules may be followed in making
sailor or any lined collars. Collars made of all over embroidery should
be faced with tape on the wrong side before the trimming is applied to
cover the edge of ruffle or lace.

The plain or shirt waist pattern will do duty for many garments--corset
cover, night dress, dressing jacket, etc. The upper part of the waist
will answer for yoke pattern of different shapes.

SEAMLESS YOKES

[Sidenote: Pattern for Yoke]

To make a pattern for a seamless yoke baste together the shoulder seams
of the fitted waist pattern, place the upper part of the pattern on
cambric or stiff paper, with the front of waist on straight edge or fold
of paper, trace the shape of the neck yoke any desired depth below the
neck line. The lower edge can be cut in any shape, the neck either high
or low, round or square. This perfectly fitted yoke pattern can be used
for a foundation for lace, velvet, ribbon, net, or any thin material.
The circular yoke made of lace and ribbon or bias strips can be made to
open