fit, owing to some deformity or peculiarity of the figure. Such figures
require especially careful fitting and the hollow place should be filled
out with wadding. This needs to be done with the greatest care and
nicety.

[Illustration: MAKING BIAS STRIPS FOR FACINGS]

Avoid too frequent fittings. The bias portions of the bodice are liable
to stretch out of shape and too much handling of the waist takes away
the freshness. This is one reason why it is advisable to make the
sleeves and collar first in order that the whole waist may be fitted at
once and all alterations made to fit both sides. A perfect figure is the
exception rather than the rule and the side that is not developed should
be well fitted, whether sleeve or bodice.

COAT OR TIGHT FITTING SLEEVES

[Sidenote: Altering Patterns]

If it is necessary to lengthen the sleeve, say two inches, cut the
pattern at right angles to the lines indicated by the dots, above and
below the elbow. The slashing should be done exactly at the same
distance apart in the upper and under portions of the sleeve in order to
retain the proper shape and size of the top and bottom. Separate the
parts, allowing one inch above and one inch below the elbow.

To shorten the sleeve, lap the slashed part or lay a fold in the pattern
instead of slashing. In either case, care should be taken that the fold
or lap is of even width all the way across, so that the original shape
of the sleeve will not be lost.

[Sidenote: Placing of Patterns]

Too much care cannot be taken in arranging the pattern of the sleeve
according to the thread of the goods. Especially is this the case in the
two-piece or coat sleeve. Generally the top part of the outside seam and
the lower part of the same side should be placed at the edge or fold of
the goods, so that the two run in the same straight line. In all cases,
the foundation sleeve or lining should be cut and fitted before the
outer portion is adjusted. Ample time should be given to the fitting and
basting of the sleeve. The "set" of the sleeve is very often
unsatisfactory because the cutting and original basting was done in a
careless manner. Remember that greater care is required in sleeve making
than in any part of the garment. Each sleeve is complete in itself and
one must not deviate from the other in size, arrangement or ornament,
or general appearance. They should be cut, basted and fitted alike and
if the arms differ in size or length the sl