h of skirt, waist and hip measure and quantity
of material required in all widths. Buy a skirt pattern with correct hip
size, as it is much more difficult to change this than to alter the
dimensions of a waist. Adjust the pattern to the figure for which the
garment is to be cut and see that it is right in all of its proportions.
Always follow the notches indicated in the seams of the pattern, and
thus avoid putting wrong pieces together. Be sure that the pattern is
placed correctly upon the material with the _straight grain_ or warp
threads of the goods running directly on a line with the _straight
perforations_ indicated in the pattern. Lay the entire pattern upon the
cloth. This gives an idea just where every piece is to come out.

[Sidenote: What the Pattern Gives]

All patterns give one-half of the bodice and the skirt, from center of
back to center of front. The plain waist pattern consists of back,
curved side piece, under arm piece (sometimes these two pieces are in
one) front, upper and under sleeve, collar or neck band. Some patterns
allow for seams--others do not. Skirt patterns give only one-half of the
front gore. The _seam_ edges of front gore are marked by _one_ notch
near the waist line. The front or straight edge of the _first_ side gore
has one notch, and two on the back edge of side gore. All the gores may
be distinguished from the edges of the back gores by the lesser number
of notches. This is true of all skirt patterns. If the patterns are
studied carefully, all skirt cutting becomes very easy.

The object of goring a garment is to take out unnecessary fullness at
the top; reducing the weight, making the garment less clumsy, and giving
a nicety of finish which could not be done in heavy material if all the
goods were left to fit into a band. Skirts may be lined or unlined,
gored or full.

SEVEN-GORED SKIRT

The style may vary with the fashion, but a well-fitting skirt should
hang even around the bottom edge, should fit easily around the hips
without being strained or defining the figure too closely, or "ride up"
when sitting, should flare slightly from hips to the bottom of the
skirt, should not fall in between the feet, the back should fall well
behind the figure. For heavy goods, as little material as possible
consistent with the prevailing style should be used.

PLAN OF SKIRT MAKING

Shortening or lengthening of pattern if necessary.
Placing of goods.
Pinning on of patte