reads. If this is done, the threads in each will run
differently and all ways but the right one. In a well-designed pattern
the back forms should be nearly as wide at the arm's eye as they are at
the waist line. The swell of bust and shoulders should be accommodated
by the back and front forms.

When material is to be cut on the bias be careful to have a _true_ bias
(the diagonal of a square) around the waist and up the front and back
seams.

PLAN FOR MAKING FITTED, LINED WAIST.

Pin pattern to lining, cut out trace seams.
Baste all seams on traced lines.
Try on lining. Make changes.
Rip lining, baste on outside and cut by fitted lining.
Baste seams and try on. Make changes if necessary.
Mark the turn for hem down the front, face and mark for fastenings.
Stitch and finish seams. Put on featherbone.
Put on collar; sew in sleeves.
Finish.

[Sidenote: Finish Lining First]

In making a lined waist, the lining is cut, basted, and fitted before
the outside is cut. After fitting, the lining is ripped apart and the
outside cut by it. For all firm, heavy materials the lining should be
slightly fuller than the outside, that is, the dress goods should be
well stretched over the lining, just as in a lined skirt, and basted
closely and evenly, the warp and the woof threads of the outside and
lining corresponding.

In laying the pattern for cutting the lining, just as much attention
should be paid to the direction of the threads as in cutting a striped
or figured goods.

[Sidenote: Marking Seams]

All seams should be traced on the lining with the tracing wheel, with a
slow backward and forward movement, making the perforations clear and
distinct. Soft spongy goods that cannot be traced may be marked with a
line of basting, tailor's chalk or by taking stitches with a pin along
the line to be marked and twisting them in the goods. This will make
holes that can be seen, but the twisting does not harm the goods. Always
trace or mark the waist line, as this is the starting point from which
to pin or baste. Bodice seams should never be begun at the top or
bottom, but at the marks or notches that show the waist line, working
towards the top and bottom.

After the lining is cut out, the seams should be basted exactly along
the traced lines, with seams out, when it is ready to be tried on.

[Sidenote: Making Changes in Straight Seams]

If the pattern has been cut or drafted by the