correct bust measure, the
back seams should never be changed. If possible, make all changes
required by letting out or taking in on the straight under-arm seams,
leaving the curved ones and the darts untouched.

[Sidenote: Pinning and Basting]

Pins should be used plentifully while the fitting is being done, but
they should be replaced with regular basting as soon as they are
removed. Do not be afraid of taking up fullness in the lining by darts
crosswise at the top of the corset or where the fullness naturally falls
in front or back. Such darts should be basted, stitched and pressed
flat. If the lining is too short, it may be lengthened by letting out
the shoulder seams.

[Sidenote: Outside Cut by Lining]

After the lining is fitted, it is ripped apart, the outside cut, basted
to it and the seams are basted, beginning at the waist line. Never use a
long thread in basting and always use short, even stitches, especially
where any curved seams are to be stitched on the machine. This rule must
be followed invariably if puckering is to be avoided.

[Illustration: WAIST LINING BASTED, SEAMS OUT]

[Sidenote: Shoulder Seams]

The pattern at the shoulder seams should be shorter in front than at the
back. In joining this seam, pin the two portions so that the ends of the
seam meet exactly at the neck and arm's eye. In basting, stretch the
front piece to fit the back, holding it in or puckering it if need be.
Pressing will banish the pucker and give an easy seam that will hug the
curve of the shoulder, as in a man's coat.

[Sidenote: Fitting]

When the waist is on the figure, pull it well down to the waist line,
pin the front linings together beginning with the neck, then lift the
waist a little in front to give fullness and pin to the waist line. Mark
for the hem down the front, finish the edge with a well-fitted facing
under which is a thin bias strip of canvas interlining for buttons or
hooks and eyes. Marks showing the position of fastenings should be made
at this time.

[Sidenote: Fitting of Neck and Sleeves]

The neck and arm's eye should be fitted by making slashes in the
curve--never cut around the curve. For the collar or neck band have a
true bias of thin canvas or crinoline and draw it around the neck and
pin with the ends _out_, towards the worker. (Never lap any edges of
waist, belt or collar when fitting.) Mark on the waist where the lower
edge of the neck band touches. Draw the sleeve on the arm,