is or
center of the body. Any jewelry, buckle, brooch, or ornament used to
fasten, secure, or strengthen these centers or to hold bands of
embroidery, collar, or folds together should be sufficiently strong to
serve the purpose. There must be a reason for position and the purpose
of its use must be apparent to satisfy the eye. The eye is unconsciously
and irresistibly drawn to these natural centers and demands some object
there on which to rest--some substance from which the fold emanate--some
reason for their detention. If this ornament at the throat or waist
fastening collar or holding folds by a girdle or clasp is omitted, the
eye is disappointed. This does not mean that the ornament, jewel,
passementerie, or embroidery should always be placed in the axis or
central line of the figure--this may be carried too far. Slight
irregularities often give an effect to hat or gown that is charming.

[Illustration: PASSEMENTERIE COVERING FACING]

[Sidenote: Trimming]

Remember that trimming is not intended to cover up, but to beautify and
strengthen. When, for economy's sake, it is used to cover worn places or
other defects, it must be selected and applied with great care or it
will loudly proclaim its mission.

[Sidenote: Unity in Dress]

Trimming should mean something--whether jewelry or passementerie. Bands
that bind nothing, straps, bows, buckles, or pins that confine nothing
offend the taste. A girdle should seem, even if it does not, to belt
in fullness; it has no use on a close-fitting, plain waist. No draperies
should be invisibly held; supply some apparent means of confining the
gathers. To preserve the lines of the figure there should be unity in
the dress. A tight-fitting skirt below a gathered waist or a full,
gathered skirt below a plain waist gives the appearance of two portions
of the body instead of the oneness desired.

The figure should never be cut across, either above or below the
waist-line with contrasting colors, different shades of the same color,
or bands of different texture. Below the waist-line the figure should
suggest the elements of strength and these horizontal bands cut the
lines of the figure at an angle of opposition, destroying the rhythm and
grace of the lines.

Much experience is required in placing horizontal lines of ornament on a
skirt effectively. In general, rows of tucks or ornament should diminish
in width from the bottom towards the top. The plain spaces should be
great