[Illustration: PLACING PATTERNS

At the left, on plain or symmetrical designs; at the right, on figured
or napped goods. _a_--Half of front gore; _b_--Second gore; _c_--Third
gore; _d_--Back gore; _e_--Front waist; _f_--Under arm piece; _g_--Side
back; _h_--Back; _i_--Outside sleeve; _j_--Under sleeve; _c'
d'_--Piecing of gores _c, d_.]

[Sidenote: Placing Patterns]

If the material is plain, has no nap, or if the design is perfectly
symmetrical, the gores may be alternated, the top of one gore coming
opposite the bottom of the next. The half pattern of the front gore is
always laid on a _lengthwise fold_ of the goods. If the goods is wide,
the other gores may be cut double with the cloth folded lengthwise. With
narrow goods, the cloth may be folded end to end after the middle gore
has been cut out, and the other gores cut double. Care should be taken
that the line of holes in the middle of the gores runs exactly in a line
with the warp of the material, i. e., parallel to the selvage.

If the goods has a figure, the design should run upwards. Any nap should
run downward, except with velvet or velveteen, in which it should run
upwards. With such goods, the gores if cut double must be placed on a
lengthwise fold, with the lengths running the same way. If the goods is
narrow, the gores may have to be cut single, reversing the pattern
(turning it over) so that both pieces may not be for the same side.

[Sidenote: Pinning Patterns]

Pin the middle of the pattern to the goods and smooth towards each end,
pinning securely at top and bottom. Avoid too many pins and pin
carefully, otherwise the pattern will be displaced.

[Sidenote: Cutting Out]

After the pattern is securely pinned, cut out the gores, using long,
sharp shears. Care should be taken not to lift the material from the
table, not to have jagged, uneven edges, as both time and material will
be wasted in straightening them. Open the shears as wide as possible,
taking a long sweep of the material, and do not allow the points of the
shears to come together. Mark all notches with basting thread, tailor's
chalk, or notch the goods if it does not ravel.

The back gores should be cut in the same way. They are usually wider
than the front gores and may require piecing, which should be done along
the warp threads.

Now remove the pattern, pin carefully all pieces together and fold as
little as possible. The trinity--_pin_, _baste_, _press_--should be
written