edle _under_ the
lower gathering thread and press the plait or gather under the thumb,
drawing the needle down, or simply pressing on the needle. Care must be
taken not to scratch or tear the material. Continue entirely across the
gathers, putting the needle under each stitch and holding the plait
firmly between the thumb and finger: turn the material and stroke the
_upper_ edge of the gathers.

[Sidenote: Gauging]

The gauging stitch is usually longer on the face than on the back, draws
the material up into distinct plaits, making it easy to dispose of the
fullness neatly, regularly and securely by overhanding the top edge of
each plait to the bottom edge of the band. The right side of the skirt
and the right side of the belt are placed against each other and each
gather oversewed to the belt. The space into which the material is to be
gathered determines the length of the long stitch. The succeeding rows
of stitches should be _directly_ under those of the first.

[Sidenote: Running and Back Stitch]

(3) The running and back stitch is made by taking a few running
stitches, drawing out the needle and making a back stitch over the last
running stitch to strengthen the seam. Care must be taken not to hold
the side next the worker too full and not to miss the under material,
but to take the stitches even on both sides.

[Sidenote: Half Back Stitch]

(4) The half-back stitch is made by taking one stitch and placing the
needle half way back, then bringing it out twice the length of the
stitch and placing the needle half way back each time from where the
last stitch ended. The appearance on the right side will be of regular
space as in the running stitch.

[Sidenote: Back Stitch]

(5) The back stitch is made by placing the needle back to the last
stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last stitch, then placing
the needle back into the last stitch, and so on, making the stitches
follow each other without any space between. This is used in all places
that are to bear great strain.

[Illustration: PLAIN STITCHES _a_--Running; _b_--Running and back;
_c_--Half back; _d_--Back stitch.]

[Sidenote: Whipping Stitch]

(6) Overhanding, oversewing, whipping, top sewing are one and the
same--small stitches taken over edges, to join folded edges or selvages,
for sewing bands on gathers, sewing lace and insertion, and for sewing
carpet strips together. The pieces for an overhand seam should be pinned
carefully, p