Over the tunic was worn the cloak, a very simple garment, being a
piece of cloth cut in the shape of a semicircle, embroidered on the
border or not, according to the purse and position of the owner.
Sometimes a piece was cut out to fit the neck.

Another form of cloak was worn with a hood. This was generally used
for travelling, or worn by such people as shepherds. It was made for
the richer folk of fine cloth, fur-lined, or entirely of fur, and for
the poorer people of skin or wool.

The cloak was fastened by a brooch, and was pinned in the centre or on
either shoulder, most generally on the right; or it was pushed through
a ring sewn on to the right side of the neck of the cloak.

The brooches were practically the same as those worn in the earlier
reigns, or were occasionally of a pure Roman design.

As will be seen in the small diagrams of men wearing the clothes of
the day, the tunic, the shirt, and the cloak were worn according to
the season, and many drawings in the MSS. of the date show men wearing
the shirt alone.

On their legs men wore trousers of leather for riding, bound round
with leather thongs, and trousers of wool also, bound with coloured
straps of wool or cloth.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Stephen; an alternative hat
for a man}]

Stockings of wool were worn, and cloth stockings also, and socks.
There was a sock without a foot, jewelled or embroidered round the
top, which was worn over the stocking and over the top of the boot in
the manner of ankle gaiters.

The country man wore twists of straw round his calf and ankle.

For the feet there were several varieties of boots and shoes made of
leather and stout cloth, now and again with wooden soles. As has been
said before, the important people rejoiced in elegant footgear of all
colours. All the shoes buttoned with one button above the outside
ankle. The boots were sometimes tall, reaching to the bottom of the
calf of the leg, and were rolled over, showing a coloured lining.
Sometimes they were loose and wrinkled over the ankle. They were both,
boot and shoe, made to fit the foot; for in this reign nearly all the
extravagances of the previous reign had died out, and it is rare to
find drawings or mention of long shoes stuffed with tow or wool.

During the reign of Stephen the nation was too occupied in wars and
battles to indulge in excessive finery, and few arts flourished,
although useful improvements occurred in the craf