cases for their hair, and otherwise stitching,
cutting, and contriving against the return of their lords.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Stephen}]

It is recorded that Matilda escaped from Oxford by a postern in a
white dress, and no doubt her women sympathizers made much of white
for dresses.

The ladies wore a simple undergarment of thin material called a sherte
or camise; this was bordered with some slight embroidery, and had
tightish long sleeves pushed back over the wrist. The garment fell
well on to the ground. This camise was worn by all classes.

The upper garment was one of three kinds: made from the neck to below
the breast, including the sleeves of soft material; from the breast to
the hips it was made of some elastic material, as knitted wool or thin
cloth, stiffened by criss-cross bands of cloth, and was fitted to the
figure and laced up the back; the lower part was made of the same
material as the sleeves and bust.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF STEPHEN (1135-1154)

Her dress fits to her figure by lacing at the back. Her long sleeves
are tied up to keep them from trailing upon the ground. Her hair is
fastened at the end into silken cases. She has a wimple in her hands
which she may wind about her head.]

The second was made tight-fitting in the body and bust, all of
one elastic material, and the skirt of loose thin stuff.

The third was a loose tunic reaching half-way between the knees and
feet, showing the camise, and tied about the waist and hips by a long
girdle.

The sleeves of these garments showed as many variations as those of
the men, but with the poor folk they were short and useful, and with
the rich they went to extreme length, and were often knotted to
prevent them from trailing on the ground.

The collar and the borders of the sleeves were enriched with
embroidery in simple designs.

In the case of the loose upper garment the border was also
embroidered.

In winter a cloak of the same shape as was worn by the men was
used--_i.e._, cut exactly semicircular, with embroidered edges.

The shoes of the ladies were fitted to the foot in no extravagant
shape, and were sewn with bands of pearls or embroidery. The poorer
folk went about barefoot.

The hair was a matter of great moment and most carefully treated; it
was parted in the centre and then plaited, sometimes intertwined with
coloured ribbands or twists of thin coloured material; it was added
to