is fashion gave rise in later times to a linen cap; the
forehead-strap was increased in height and stiffened so that it rose
slightly above the crown of the head, and the wimple, instead of
hanging over it, was sewn down inside it, and fell over the top of the
cap. Later the cap was sewn in pleats.

The gown of this time was quite loose, with a deep band round the neck
and round the hem of the skirts, which were very full. So far as one
can tell, it was put on over the head, having no other opening but at
the neck, and was held at the waist by an ornamental girdle.

The chemise showed above the neck of the gown, which was fastened by
the usual round brooch.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF HENRY II. (1154-1189)

There is a chin-band to be seen passing under the wimple; this band
is pinned to hold it round the head.]

The sleeves were well fitting, rather loose at the elbow, and
fell shaped over the wrist, where there was a deep border of
embroidery. It is quite possible that the cuffs and hem may have been
made of fur.

The shoes were, as usual to the last two reigns, rather blunt at the
toe, and generally fitting without buckle, button, or strap round the
ankle, where they were rolled back.

Above the waist the tied girdle was still worn, but this was being
supplanted by a broad belt of silk or ornamented leather, which
fastened by means of a buckle. The tongue of the belt was made very
long, and when buckled hung down below the knee.

The cloaks, from the light way in which they are held, appear to have
been made of silk or some such fine material as fine cloth. They are
held on to the shoulders by a running band of stuff or a silk cord,
the ends of which pass through two fasteners sewn on to the cloak, and
these are knotted or have some projecting ornament which prevents the
cord from slipping out of the fastener.

In this way one sees the cloak hanging from the shoulders behind, and
the cord stretched tight across the breast, or the cord knotted in a
second place, and so bringing the cloak more over the shoulders.

The effigy of the Queen at Fontevraud shows her dress covered with
diagonal bars of gold, in the triangles of which there are gold
crescents placed from point to point, and no doubt other ladies of her
time had their emblems or badges embroidered into their gowns.

RICHARD THE FIRST

Reigned ten years: 1189-1199.

Born 1157. Married, 1191, to Berengaria of Navarre