in writing of a costume one can visualize
mentally to leave out much that might be useful to the student who
knows little or nothing of the period of dress in which one is
writing; so perhaps it will be better to now dress a man completely.

First, long hair and a neatly-trimmed beard; over this a hood and cape
or a circular cap, with a slight projection on the top of it.

Second, a shirt of white, like a modern soft shirt.

Third, tights of cloth or wool.

Fourth, shoes strapped over the instep or tied with thongs, or
fitting at the ankle like a slipper, or boots of soft leather turned
over a little at the top, at the base of the calf of the leg.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of John}]

Fifth, a gown, loosely fitting, buckled at the neck, with sleeves wide
at the top and tight at the wrist, or quite loose and coming to just
below the elbow, or a tunic reaching only to the knees, both gown and
tunic fastened with a belt.

Sixth, a surcoat sometimes, at others a cloak held together by a
brooch, or made for travelling with a hood.

This completes an ordinary wardrobe of the time.

THE WOMEN

As may be seen from the plate, no change in costume took place.

The hair plaited and bound round the head or allowed to flow loose
upon the shoulders.

Over the hair a gorget binding up the neck and chin. Over all a wimple
pinned to the gorget.

A long loose gown with brooch at the neck. Sleeves tight at the
wrist. The whole gown held in at the waist by a belt, with one long
end hanging down.

Shoes made to fit the shape of the foot, and very elaborately
embroidered and sewn.

A long cloak with buckle or lace fastening.

In this reign there were thirty English towns which had carried on a
trade in dyed cloths for fifty years.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF JOHN (1199-1216)

One may just see the purse beneath the cloak, where it hangs from
the belt. The cloak itself is of fine diaper-patterned material.]

HENRY THE THIRD

Reigned fifty-six years: 1216-1272.

Born 1207. Married, 1236, to Eleanor of Provence.

THE MEN

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Henry III.}]

Despite the fact that historians allude to the extravagance of this
reign, there is little in the actual form of the costume to bear out
the idea. Extravagant it was in a large way, and costly for one who
would appear well dressed; but the fopperies lay more in the stuffs
than in the cut of the garm