e hair in order. Some wore a white silk
or linen cap, so shaped as to include and cover the two side-plaits
and combine a gorget and wimple in one. Pointed frontals of pearls
were worn across the forehead, and fillets of silk or linen were so
tied that long ends hung down the back.

[Illustration: {Four women of the time of Edward III.}]

Yellow hair was much esteemed, and ladies who were not favoured by
Nature, brought saffron to their aid, and by such efforts brought
Nature into line with Art.

There was the general custom of wearing the surcoat in imitation of
the men, a garment I have described frequently--a slightly-fitting
garment without sleeves--you will see how this grew later into a
gorgeous affair. These surcoats were sometimes of fine cloth of gold
covered with an intricate, delicate pattern in which beasts, birds,
and foliage mingled in arabesque. Under this surcoat was a plainer,
better-fitting garment, made sometimes of the barred and rayed
material so common to the men, or of velvet, cloth, or silk, in plain
colours, green and red being then very favourite; ermines and many
other furs were used to border these gowns. Sometimes you may see that
this gown had sleeves short at the elbow, exposing a different
coloured under-sleeve, buttoned from elbow to wrist; at other
times--in fact, among all fashionable persons--the curious fashion of
the tippet, or long streamer, was worn. I have carefully described
this fashion in the previous chapter.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Edward III.}]

The plain gown with tight sleeves was most in use, and the skirts of
this gown were very voluminous, and had either pockets or holes in the
front of them; the holes enabled the wearer to reach the purse hanging
from a girdle which encircled the waist of the under-dress. These
gowns were generally buttoned in front, from neck to waist, or they
were laced.

They also wore a heavier gown which reached just below the knee,
showing the skirts of the under-gown; the heavy gowns were often
fur-lined, and had loose wide sleeves to the elbow.

There was at this time a curious fur or cloth cape in use, longer
behind than in front--in fact, it varied with the taste of the owner.
It was cut in even scallops all round; I say even to show that they
were sewn-edged, not jagged and rough-edged. Any pair of these
scallops might be longer than any other pair. Ladies wore these capes
for hunting, and ornamented the ends wi