nner of their dress.

Of the time, you must remember that it was the time of chivalry, when
there was a Round Table of Knights at Windsor, founded in 1345; when
the Order of the Garter was founded; when tiltings and all manner of
tournaments were at their height; and you listen to the minstrels of
King Edward's household playing upon the trumpet, the cytole, the
pipe, the taberet, the clarion, and the fiddle.

St. George, the Primate of Egypt in the fourth century, had now risen
to public esteem and notice, so that he became in this time not only
the patron saint of chivalry, but the tutelar saint of England.

Boys were taken from the care of the ladies of the household at the
age of seven, when they became pages to knights, and were sworn to
devote themselves to the graces and favours of some girl. At fourteen
the boy became a squire, and at twenty-one, if he were possessed of a
rental of L20 a year in land, he made his fast and vigil, and was
afterward dubbed knight and given his spurs.

[Illustration: {Twelve hair arrangements for women}]

The noteworthy point about a woman of this reign was her hair. The
Queen herself wore an elaborate mode of coiffure for that time; she
wore a metal fillet round her head, to which was attached two cases,
circular in shape, of gold fretwork, ornamented with precious stones.
She wore her hair unplaited, and brought in two parts from the back
of her head, and as far as one can see, pushed into the jewelled
cases.

[Illustration: {Five sleeve types for women}]

The most general form of hair-dressing was an excess on the mode of
the previous reign, a richness of jewel-work, an abundance of gold
wire. It was usual to divide the hair into two plaits, and arrange
these on either side of the face, holding them in their place by means
of a fillet; they might be worn folded straight up by the face, or at
an angle, but they were never left hanging; if hair was left loose it
was not plaited, but flowing.

The gorget, or throat cloth, was still in general use, and it was
attached to the hair by very elaborate-headed pins. Sometimes the
hair, dressed with the gorget, was divided into four plaits, two on
either side of the face, and fastened horizontally.

The wimple of silk or linen was very generally worn. A caul of gold
net came into fashion, but not until the end of the reign. The ladies
were great upon hunting and hawking, and this must have been a
convenient fashion to keep th