an heraldic design or motto. The sleeves turned back
disclosed the sleeve of a cotehardie underneath, with the little
buttons running from the elbow to the first knuckle of the little
finger. The houppelande had a very high collar, coming well up to the
middle of the back of the head; it was buttoned up to the chin in
front, and the collar was often turned down half-way, the two top
buttons being left undone. It was fastened about the middle by a thin
leather belt, very long; this was buckled, and the long end turned
under and brought over to hang down; the end was ornamented with many
devices--figures of saints, heraldic figures, or other ornaments.
Sometimes the entire belt was sewn with small devices in precious
metal or enamels.

Now, to be in the height of fashion, one either wore the houppelande
extremely long in the skirt or extremely short--so short, in fact, as
to leave but a frill of it remaining below the waist--leaving the
sleeves still their abnormal length. Pretty fads, as tying a dagger
round the neck, or allowing it to hang low between the legs, or
placing it in the small of the back, were much in vogue.

[Illustration: {Two types of long shoe}]

Every form of beard or moustache was used, and the hair was worn long
to the nape of the neck. By the dandy it was elaborately pressed and
curled at the ends. Bands of real or artificial flowers encircled the
heads of the dandies, the artificial flowers made in enamels or gold.
Rings were worn of great size on thumb and finger; long staffs with
elaborate heads were carried.

Under the houppelande was the skirt and the cotehardie of thin
material, and on the legs hose, pied or powdered, made of silk or
cloth cut to the form and sewn.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF RICHARD II. (1377-1399)

His chaperon, or hood, is twisted and tied about his head with
the liripipe, the elongated peak of his hood, thrown over his
shoulders.]

The shoes were of great length, with long points; rarely we find
examples of the absurd fashion of wearing the points so long that they
were tied back to the knees, but often they were so long that the
points came out 6 inches beyond the toe. They were made of every
material, sewn with pearls on cloth or velvet, stamped with gold on
leather, or the leather raised. The toes were sometimes stuffed hard,
sometimes allowed to hang limp.

For walking in the streets high clogs of wood were used, made with
long pointed end