eign opens sombrely enough--Richard in prison, and twenty-five
suits of cloth of gold left, among other of his butterfly raiment, in
Haverford Castle.

We are still in the age of the houppelande, the time of cut edges,
jagging, big sleeves and trailing gowns. Our fine gentlemen take the
air in the long loose gown, or the short edition of the same with the
skirts cut from it. They have invented, or the tailor has invented, or
necessity has contrived, a new sleeve. It is a bag sleeve, very full
and fine, enormous at the elbow, tight at the wrist, where it may fall
over the hand in a wide cuff with dagged edges, or it may end in a
plain band.

[Illustration: A MAN AND WOMAN OF THE TIME OF HENRY IV. (1399-1413)

Very little change in dress; the man in the loose gown called the
houppelande. The woman also in a houppelande.]

Let us take six gentlemen met together to learn the old
thirteenth-century part-song, the round entitled 'Sumer is icumen in.'

[Illustration: {Two men of the time of Henry IV.}]

The first, maybe, is in the high-collared houppelande with the long
skirts; his sleeves are of a different colour to his gown, and are
fastened to it under cut epaulettes at his shoulders; he wears a
baldrick, hung with bells, over his shoulder; his houppelande is split
on one side to show his parti-coloured hose beyond his knee; his shoes
are long and very pointed; his hair is cut short, and he wears a
twisted roll of stuff round his head.

The second is in the latest mode; he wears the voluminous sleeves
which end in a plain band at his wrist, and these sleeves are of a
different colour to his houppelande, the skirts of which are cut short
at the knee, and then are cut into neat dags. This garment is not so
full as that of the first gentleman, which is gathered in at the waist
by a long-tongued belt, but is buttoned down the front to the waist
and is full in the skirt; also it has no collar. This man wears his
hair long and curled at the nape of his neck.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Henry IV.}]

A third of these gentlemen, a big burly man, is in a very short tunic
with wide sleeves; his tights are of two colours, his left leg red,
his right blue. Over his tunic he wears a quilted waistcoat, the
collar and armholes of which are trimmed with fur.

[Illustration {A man of the time of Henry IV.}]

A fourth wears a loose houppelande, one half of which is blue and the
other half black; it is butto