s of their feet.
Let me give a wardrobe for a man of this time.
A hood with a cape to it; the peak of the hood made full, but about
half a hand's breadth longer than necessary to the hood; the cape cut
sometimes at the edge into a number of short slits.
A cap of soft stuff to fit the head, with or without an upturned brim.
A fillet of silk or metal for the hair.
A gown made very loose and open at the neck, wide in the body, the
sleeves loose or tight to the wrist. The gown long or short, on the
ground or to the knee, and almost invariably belted at the waist by a
long belt of leather with ornamental studs.
A surcoat split from shoulder to hem, or sewn up except for a wide
armhole.
A coat shaped very slightly to the figure, having pocket-holes in
front, small armholes, and a buttoned neck.
A great oblong-shaped piece of stuff for a cloak, or a heavy, round
cloak with an attached hood.
Tights of cloth or sewn silk--that is, pieces of silk cut and sewn to
the shape of the leg.
Shoes with long points--about 2 inches beyond the toes--fastened by a
strap in front, or laced at the sides, or made to pull on and fit at
the ankle, the last sometimes with a V-shaped piece cut away on
either side.
There was a tendency to beads, and a universal custom of long hair.
In all such clothes as are mentioned above every rich stuff of cloth,
silk, wool, and frieze may be used, and fur linings and fur hats are
constant, as also are furred edges to garments.
There was a slight increase of heraldic ornament, and a certain amount
of foreign diaper patterning on the clothes.
THE WOMEN
Now the lady must needs begin to repair the ravages of time and touch
the cheek that no longer knows the bloom of youth with--rouge.
This in itself shows the change in the age. Since the Britons--poor,
simple souls--had sought to embellish Nature by staining themselves
blue with woad and yellow with ochre, no paint had touched the faces
of the fashionable until this reign. Perhaps discreet historians had
left that fact veiled, holding the secrets of the lady's toilet too
sacred for the black of print; but now the murder came out. The fact
in itself is part of the psychology of clothes. Paint the face, and
you have a hint towards the condition of fashion.
Again, as in the case of the men, no determined cut shows which will
point to this age as one of such and such a garment or such an
innovation, but--and this I would leave to
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