which the borders of tunics, of cloaks, the edgings of
sleeves, and bands upon the shoes, were elegantly patterned. The more
important the man, the finer his shoes.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF STEPHEN (1135-1154)

He is wearing a cloak with hood attached; it is of skin, the smooth
leather inside. He has an ankle gaiter covering the top of his
shoes. On the arm over which the cloak hangs can be seen the white
sleeve of the shirt.]

As will be seen from the drawings, the man wore his hair long,
smoothly parted in the centre, with a lock drawn down the parting
from the back of his head. As a rule, the hair curled back naturally,
and hung on the shoulders, but sometimes the older fashion of the past
reign remained, and the hair was carefully curled in locks and tied
with coloured ribbon.

Besides the hood as covering for the head, men wore one or other of
the simple caps shown, made of cloth or of fur, or of cloth fur-lined.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Stephen; two types of shoe; a
boot}]

[Illustration: {Two types of tunic; two types of cloak; four types
of sleeve showing cuff variations}]

Next to his skin the man of every class wore a shirt of the pattern
shown--the selfsame shirt that we wear to day, excepting that the
sleeves were made very long and tight-fitting, and were pushed back
over the wrist, giving those wrinkles which we notice on all the
Bayeux tapestry sleeves, and which we see for many centuries in
drawings of the undergarment. The shape has always remained the same;
the modes of fastening the shirt differ very slightly--so little, in
fact, that a shirt of the fourth century which still remains in
existence shows the same button and loop that we notice of the shirts
of the twelfth century. The richer man had his shirt embroidered round
the neck and sometimes at the cuffs. Over this garment the man wore
his tunic--of wool, or cloth, or (rarely) of silk; the drawing
explains the exact making of it. The tunic, as will be seen, was
embroidered at the neck, the cuffs, and round the border. One drawing
shows the most usual of these tunics, while the other drawings will
explain the variations from it--either a tight sleeve made long and
rolled back, a sleeve made very wide at the cuff and allowed to hang,
or a sleeve made so that it fell some way over the hand. It was
embroidered inside and out at the cuff, and was turned back to allow
free use of the hand.