ts.

There is in the British Museum a fine enamelled plate of this date
which is a representation of Henry of Blois, Stephen's brother, who
was the Bishop of Winchester. Part of the inscription, translated by
Mr. Franks, says that 'Art is above gold and gems,' and that 'Henry,
while living, gives gifts of brass to God.'

Champleve enamel was very finely made in the twelfth century, and many
beautiful examples remain, notably a plaque which was placed on the
column at the foot of which Geoffrey Plantagenet was buried. It is a
portrait of him, and shows the Byzantine influence still over the
French style.

This may appear to be rather apart from costume, but it leads one to
suppose that the ornaments of the time may have been frequently
executed in enamel or in brass--such ornaments as rings and brooches.

It is hard to say anything definite about the colours of the dresses
at this time. All that we can say is that the poorer classes were
clothed principally in self-coloured garments, and that the dyes used
for the clothes of the nobles were of very brilliant hues. But a
street scene would be more occupied by the colour of armour. One would
have seen a knight and men-at-arms--the knight in his plain armour and
the men in leather and steel; a few merchants in coloured cloaks, and
the common crowd in brownish-yellow clothes with occasional bands of
colour encircling their waists.

The more simply the people are represented, the more truthful will be
the picture or presentation. Few pictures of this exact time are
painted, and few stories are written about it, but this will give all
the information necessary to produce any picture or stage-play, or to
illustrate any story.

The garments are perfectly easy to cut out and make. In order to prove
this I have had them made from the bare outlines given here, without
any trouble.

THE WOMEN

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Stephen}]

Though many parts of England were at this time being harassed by wars,
still the domestic element grew and flourished.

The homes of the English from being bare and rude began to know the
delights of embroidery and weaving. The workroom of the ladies was the
most civilized part of the castle, and the effect of the Norman
invasion of foreign fashions was beginning to be felt.

As the knights were away to their fighting, so were the knights'
ladies engaged in sewing sleeve embroideries, placing of pearls upon
shoes, making silk