it was
a cloth or silk vest, tight to the body, and close over the hips; the
length was determined by the fancy of the wearer. It also had
influence on the long robes still worn, which, although full below the
waist to the feet, now more closely fitted the body and shoulders.

The fashionable sleeves were tight to the elbow, and from there
hanging and narrow, showing a sleeve belonging to an undergarment.

The cloak also varied in shape. The heavy travelling-cloak, with the
hood attached, was of the old pattern, long, shapeless, with or
without hanging sleeves, loose at the neck, or tightly buttoned.

Then there was a hooded cloak, with short sleeves, or with the sleeves
cut right away, a sort of hooded surcoat. Then there were two distinct
forms of cape: one a plain, circular cape, not very deep, which had a
plain, round, narrow collar of fur or cloth, and two or three buttons
at the neck; and there was the round cape, without a collar, but with
turned back lapels of fur. This form of cape is often to be seen.

The boots and shoes were longer at the toes, and were sometimes
buttoned at the sides.

The same form of hats remain, but these were now treated with fur
brims.

Round the waist there was always a belt, generally of plain black
leather; from it depended a triangular pouch, through which a dagger
was sometimes stuck.

[Illustration: A MAN AND WOMAN OF THE TIME OF EDWARD II. (1307-1327)

Notice the great length of liripipe on the man's hood, also his
short tunic of rayed cloth, his hanging sleeve and his under-sleeve.

The woman has her hair dressed in two side-plaits, to which the
gorget or neckcloth is pinned.]

The time of parti-coloured clothes was just beginning, and the
cotehardie was often made from two coloured materials, dividing the
body in two parts by the colour difference; it was the commencement
of the age which ran its course during the next reign, when men were
striped diagonally, vertically, and in angular bars; when one leg was
blue and the other red.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Edward II.; a cap}]

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Edward II.}]

You will note that all work was improving in this reign when you hear
that the King paid the wife of John de Bureford 100 marks for an
embroidered cope, and that a great green hanging was procured for
King's Hall, London, for solemn feasts--a hanging of wool, worked with
figures of kings and beasts. The lad