ind comment is shown by the fact that some old monk
pictured the devil in a neat-laced gown.

It was, at any rate, a distinct departure from the loosely-clothed
lady of 1066 towards the neater figure of 1135.

The lacing was more to draw the wrinkles of the close-woven bodice of
the gown smooth than to form a false waist and accentuated hips, the
beauty of which malformation I must leave to the writers in ladies'
journals and the condemnation to health faddists.

However, the lacing was not the only matter of note. A change was
coming over all feminine apparel--a change towards richness, which
made itself felt in this reign more in the fabric than in the actual
make of the garment.

[Illustration: A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF WILLIAM II. (1087-1100)

This shows the gown, which is laced behind, fitting more closely to
the figure. The sleeves are wider above the wrist.]

The gown was open at the neck in the usual manner, was full in
the skirt and longer than heretofore, was laced at the back, and was
loose in the sleeve.

The sleeve as worn by the men--that is, the over-long sleeve hanging
down over the hand--was also worn by the women, and hung down or was
turned back, according to the freak of the wearer. Not only this, but
a new idea began, which was to cut a hole in the long sleeve where the
hand came, and, pushing the hand through, to let the rest of the
sleeve droop down. This developed, as we shall see later.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of William II.}]

Then the cloak, which had before been fastened by a brooch on the
shoulder or in the centre of the breast, was now held more tightly
over the shoulders by a set of laces or bands which ran round the back
from underneath the brooch where they were fastened, thus giving more
definition to the shoulders.

You must remember that such fashions as the hole in the sleeve and the
laced cloak were not any more universal than is any modern fashion,
and that the good dame in the country was about a century behind the
times with her loose gown and heavy cloak.

There were still the short gowns, which, being tucked in at the waist
by the girdle, showed the thick wool chemise below and the unlaced
gown, fitting like a jersey.

The large wimple was still worn wrapped about the head, and the hair
was still carefully hidden.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of William II.}]

Shall we imagine that it is night, and that the lady is going to bed?
She