rhaps, I have endeavoured to follow this precept laid down
by Father Gerald, trying by slight pictures of the times to make the
dry bones live, to make the clothes stir up and puff themselves into
the shapes of men.

It is almost a necessity that one who would describe, paint, stage, or
understand the costume of this reign should know the state of England
at the time.

For there is in this reign a distinction without a difference in
clothes; the shapes are almost identical to the shapes and patterns of
the previous reigns, but everybody is a little better dressed.

The mantles worn by the few in the time of William the Red are worn
now by most of the nobility, fur-lined and very full.

One may see on the sides of the west door of Rochester Cathedral Henry
and his first wife, and notice that the mantle he wears is very full;
one may see that he wears a supertunic, which is gathered round his
waist. This tunic is the usual Norman tunic reaching to the knee, but
now it is worn over an under-tunic which reaches to the ground in
heavy folds.

One may notice that the King's hair is long and elegantly twisted into
pipes or ringlets, and that it hangs over his shoulders.

[Illustration: A MAN OF THE TIME OF HENRY I. (1100-1135)

His hair is curled in ringlets; he wears a long cloak. The shirt
shows at the neck of the tunic. The small design in the corner is
from a sanctuary door-knocker.]

No longer is the priestly abuse of 'filthy goat' applicable, for
Henry's beard is neatly trimmed and cut round his face.

These two things are the only practical difference between the two
dates--the end of the eleventh century and the beginning of the
twelfth.

The under-tunic was made as a perfectly plain gown with tight sleeves
ending at the wrist; it hung loose and full upon the figure. Over this
was worn the short tunic with wide sleeves ending at the elbow. Both
tunics would have broad borders of embroidered work or bands of
coloured material. The supertunic would be brooched by one of those
circular Norman brooches which was an ornamental circle of open
gold-work in which stones and jewels were set. The brooch was fastened
by a central pin.

The extravagances of the previous reign were in some measure done away
with; even the very long hair was not fashionable in the latter half
of this reign, and the ultra-long sleeve was not so usual.

So we may give as a list of clothes for men in this reign:

A white linen