ents and walls in full repair,
these vast constructions must have been indeed impressive.

CHAPTER XVI

IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS

(1900)

A street-car line, running for most of the distance down hill, connects
Santa Ana with Tlaxcala, the towns being separated by seven miles. When
making this little journey to Tlaxcala in January, 1897, we noticed
in the car with us, a stout, purely indian man, who seemed anxious
to engage us in conversation. Knowing a few words of English, he was
particularly anxious to practice them. He called our attention to the
various villages, streams, and mountains in the country through which
we were passing, and took delight in analyzing the native names and
explaining their meanings. When we were returning in the afternoon, we
met a gentleman who had been in the same car with us in the morning, and
we inquired regarding our indian acquaintance. He told us that he was
a full-blooded indian, whose native tongue was Aztec, and who lived in
Santa Ana. Being the child of poor parents, the state had assisted in
his education; he was now studying law in the city of Puebla. He was
also a musician, and on this occasion had been upon his way to a public
appointment, where he was to sing.

Later, in Puebla, we called upon this gentleman, whose name we found was
Quechol, meaning a bird with a crooked neck, perhaps a flamingo. He was
interested in our study, and said we ought some time to visit the indian
towns of his people upon the slopes of Malintzi. In January, 1900,
having been delayed in our plans, we decided to spend a few days in
Tlaxcala, and secured his company. Our preparations were made at Santa
Ana; at the home of his parents we were hospitably welcomed, and
chocolate and bread were furnished, before we started on our journey.
While this refreshment was preparing, we visited the old church, in
front of which stood an aged cypress tree, hung with gray moss and
blazing with red flowers. We also entered some of the houses, where,
on domestic looms, the _serapes_ for which the town is famous are
manufactured. We visited also a private school for girls, established by
a Senor Barela, who is noted as the first to introduce the industry of
weaving wool into this community. While the memory of this gentleman
is held in high esteem by this people, that of his wife is by no means
savory. It seems that she was an avaricious, vain and selfish woman,
with no sympathy for his schemes for the better