y stories regarding the places that we passed,
for the whole state of Tlaxcala abounds in legend.

CHAPTER XVII

IN THE CHINANTLA

(1900)

Once more we found ourselves in picturesque Cuicatlan. Walking up the
familiar street, we again found lodging with Dona Serafina. Having
settled, and taken a look out over the beautiful landscape visible
through our windows, we interviewed the _jefe politico_, whom we we
found the same nerveless, well-meaning individual as ever. After
grumbling, and insisting that it was impossible to fit us out on such
short notice, he finally promised that all should be ready the next
morning. It was a sorry outfit that we found; one medium-sized mule for
myself, and four small _burros_ for the other members of the party. A
boy from the jail was sent with us as _mozo_ to carry our instruments.
It was still early when we started through the hot, sandy, flat land,
covered with gigantic cactus trees, which swarmed with little birds of
many beautiful kinds. We soon began to climb the great, red rock cliffs,
up, and up, and up, endlessly. We had forgotten how long the road was;
but it was longer than ever on account of the beasts we rode. Long
before we reached Papalo, Manuel and Louis were on foot, rather than
longer submit to the torture of riding their little _burros_. As we
neared the town, we were surprised to find a cloud effect almost as fine
as that near Juquila in the Mixe country. Had it had clearly defined
banks on both sides, its resemblance to a cataract would have been
complete. As it was, there was no boundary back of the side towards us,
and the clouds plunged over and downward as well as in the direction of
the flow of the main mass. No one in the town recognized us. Supper and
a night's lodging were readily supplied, but when we wished to secure
new animals for the onward journey, there was difficulty. They were
promised, indeed, for seven o'clock, but it was long after eight before
we saw any signs of their appearance. Remonstrating, we were told that
there was other business to attend to, and that the town officials could
not devote themselves to us. With great difficulty, by 10 o'clock all
preparations were made, and we started on the journey. The animals were
not bad, but we had been told that there were eight leagues of hard road
between us and Tepanapa, and six more from there to San Juan Zautla, our
destination; we were told that we should spend the night at Tepanapa