we rode along. Manuel, Louis and Frank slept in the loft, Ramon
and I upon the floor below. The two _mozos_ with the saddles slept in
the other hut. The night was cold and the damp air penetrating. We arose
early to go upon our way, but unfortunately yielded to the request of
Louis and Ramon, permitting them to go in search of food. Two full hours
passed before they returned with a few _tortillas_ and two eggs; so that
it was half-past-eight when finally we started.

[Illustration: SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]

The road was slippery and muddy, descending constantly; a large portion
of the way was through woods: at the bottom of the slope we found
ourselves by a fine brook, which we forded. Then began an ascent as
precipitous, slippery and unpleasant. The trail followed the bank of the
stream. Passing through a dense jungle of vegetation, where the air was
hot and wet, the flora was characteristic. Trees with large, coarse,
broad pods enclosing two or three great seeds, trees with acorn-shaped
red fruits, quantities of sensitive plants covered with pink flowers,
occasional orchids bearing flowers of brilliant flame color, and vines
with lovely blue pea-flowers made up the bulk of the tangled growth
through which we passed. At two places we crossed pretty streams, with
cascades and narrow gorges, opening on to the gorge along the sides of
which we were travelling; where these streams crossed our trail there
were great masses of caladiums with their leaves of green velvet. We
passed two little coffee plantations, the first of which was sadly
neglected and overgrown with weeds, the second neatly kept. From this we
rose again, and having gained the summit, looked down upon the village
of San Juan Zautla.

Riding to the town-house, we met the _presidente_ and _secretario_, the
latter an intelligent fellow, who told us that the town was dwindling,
numbering at present but 80 _contribuentes_. He ordered a capital dinner
for us of chicken, fried bananas, eggs, _frijoles, tortillas_ and
coffee. Though the _secretario_ was intelligent, the _presidente_ was
otherwise. He was good-natured, but a fool. With pride he frequently
remarked, "_yo soy presidente_" (I am president). Then he whispered
and mumbled, kissed my hand, assumed an air of great intelligence, and
walked off with a peculiar tottering movement. These performances
took place not once or twice, but every time the official made his
appearance. Having fed us, the _secretario_ disapp