ay. Just then the bull took
matters into his own control, and, with a snort and plunge, started
wildly away, dragging the old fellow at a wild run down the trail,
finally whirling him and the baby into a heap by the roadside, while he
himself took up the mountain-side. It was after dark before we reached
Papalo.

After much grumbling, supper was prepared and a solemn promise given
that we should leave at seven in the morning. When we were ready, no
animals were to be seen. The _presidente_ asserted that the price which
we had paid was only to that point, and that if we wanted animals for
Cuicatlan we must make a new arrangement. This was sheer blackmail,
because there had been no misunderstanding in the matter, and a liberal
price had been paid. After wrangling for an hour, we shook the dust
of Papalo literally from our feet, and started to walk to Cuicatlan,
telling the town authorities that our burdens must be taken by _mozos_
to the _cabecera_ before three o'clock, and that we should pay nothing
for the service. Probably we should not have been so ready to take this
heroic action if we had not remembered that the road was down hill all
the way, and good walking. Still, fifteen miles is fifteen miles, and
the sun was hot, and though we left at 8:30, it was two o'clock before
we entered Cuicatlan. We had no adventures by the way, except the
killing of a coral snake which lay in the middle of the road. At three
the _mozos_ with their burdens arrived, and felt it very hard that we
kept our promise of paying nothing for their service.

CHAPTER XVIII

TO COIXTLAHUACA

(1900)

For a day we rested at Cuicatlan to make arrangements for a trip to
the land of the Chochos. We complained bitterly to the _jefe politico_
regarding the miserable animals which had been supplied us for our last
journey, and demanded something better.

Frank had had enough of practical anthropology, and left us, so there
were but four to be provided. At eight o'clock the following morning,
four decent horses and two pack animals were waiting at our door. A
mounted _arriero_ was in charge, to accompany us. Although he had been
inefficient on the preceding journey, the same jail-bird was sent with
us, as _mozo_, whom we had had before. At 8:30 our party of six persons
started; passing the river, which we forded, an excellent road took us,
for a league, over the sandy plain, which was fairly grown with trees,
supplying a little shade. The