,
reaching Zautla the second day. As we left the town we overtook a
funeral procession on its way to the little hill-crest cemetery which we
passed soon after. At first the road was good, gradually ascending. It
led us up a rising pine-covered crest, with a little hollow of deciduous
trees in the midst. We were again getting into a region where the great
hills presented two differing slopes, one dry, pine-clad; the other
moist and covered with the dense tropical forest. We soon found
ourselves upon the damp slope in a forest, almost the counterpart of
those with which we were familiar in the land of the Mixes. Great oaks
were loaded with bromelias and dotted with orchids; ferns of many
beautiful kinds grew along the roadside. Unlike the forest of the Mixes,
the trees here were hung with masses of golden-yellow moss, presenting
a curious and mysterious aspect. From here, the trail descended rapidly
over surfaces of slippery stone and patches of mud; the air was heavier
and heavier with moisture. Ferns abounded, and presently great tree
ferns were to be seen, here and there, in all directions. Shortly, our
road was through a true gorge, where the footing for the horses was
precarious. Great masses of lycopods of several species covered the
rocks and little round tufts of a dark green plant with feathery foliage
dotted the decaying tree trunks. The descent seemed endless, and for
more than two hours we descended deeper and deeper into the dampness and
darkness. It was six o'clock when we came out upon a slope where the
trail was easier and almost level, and it was after dark before we
reached the first hut of the miserable _ranchito_ of Tepanapa. Checking
our horses, we called, but received no answer. Sending our _mozo_ to the
house, we asked for food and shelter, but were refused everything, as
they said that they were in bed. A little lad, however, agreed to show
us to the next hut, and we followed him as well as we could in the
darkness and over the slippery road, some rods further. We found there
two empty huts within an enclosure, and, taking possession of one,
brought in our things out of the mist, and soon had a fire built and a
candle lighted. In vain we urged our _mozo_ to hunt for food. He said
that all the houses were empty, and, if perchance one were occupied, no
one would turn out so late to supply us. All were extremely hungry, as
we had eaten nothing since morning except a _tortilla_ or two with some
eggs as