some sugar-canes,
catch butterflies, and take views. One of the trees from which the vines
hung was a perfect mass of ferns, orchids and bromelias of many kinds.
On the great slope back of us, toward the gap through which the brook
had broken, were great cliffs of massive rock; otherwise the whole
mountain slope was a sheet of richest green. The ascent was long and
difficult, and the party went slowly, with many rests. It was amusing,
how, even at this distance, as we mounted the slope, we could hear the
constant beating of the _mapaho_ in the village behind us, as if in
rejoicing at our departure. As we neared the summit, our carriers again
made signals of a desire to converse. They would fulfill their whole
duty, and would carry their burdens to the town-house in San Pedro, but
would we have the kindness, from here on, to take the lead? Oh, yes, we
answered, we would take the lead, and they should see that nothing would
happen. No one would harm us; we were not about to die.

To make a favorable impression, we asked for a drink of water at the
first house we came to, and passed a greeting with the few men, women
and children whom we met on our way into town. The greater part of the
population was at church, where we found a service in progress, and we
were obliged to wait until it was over before we saw the town
officials. I told the _secretario_ to summon the town government to the
municipal-house, which was a small affair, no more than 15 or 18 by 20
feet, with walls of lashed poles and a palm roof. A narrow bench ran
around the four sides, and two tables, one long and one short one, set
at right angles, occupied the greater portion of the open space. A long
wide bench was placed alongside of the larger. At one end there was a
_santo_, in a little shrine decorated with flowers and leaves. A little
fire was built upon the floor, over which wax was melting, in which
candles were being dipped.

The _secretario_ chanced to be a man whom I had met at Cuicatlan the
year before. He recalled our work, and taking us to his own house, we
soon had an excellent dinner. He seemed to be well-to-do, and had
two houses built of slabs lashed vertically together. Nets full of
_jicaras_, great stacks of corn neatly laid out, good tableware in
quantity, and a kerosene-lamp, all were evidences of his wealth. We
ate at a good table, in the house, where the corn was stored. The most
astonishing thing, however, in the house was an old-fa