he driver where
my companions were, he answered that they had refused to come because
I had sent no written order to that effect. I suggested that we should
turn back and get them, but to this proposition he gave refusal. Not
only so, but the _licenciado_ expressed vexation at the delay which he
was suffering, and demanded that we should go on at once. Argument,
persuasions, threats were all of no avail, and, as it was necessary that
I should see the _jefe_ at the earliest possible moment, I was forced
to mount the coach and leave my unfortunate and obedient companions to
their fate. For an hour and a half the coach lumbered slowly over a hot
and dusty road, which passed between small, bare, gray or brown rock
hills, rising to a higher level only a little before we reached
Teotitlan itself.

Hastening to the _jefatura_, I discovered that the _jefe_ had gone to
Mexico, leaving the _presidente_ of the town as his lieutenant. This man
was neither willing, interested, nor efficient. He had little authority,
even with his own policemen and townsmen. I requested that the first
thing should be to send for my companions and bring them to town within
the briefest time. Orders were sent by the policemen to the driver
of the coach, that he should return at once to the station; to these
orders, he sent the false reply that his coach had broken down, one
wheel being completely ruined. After some wrangling and delay, the
_presidente_ sent a foot-messenger to San Antonio with orders to the
authorities of that village to supply three animals for the travellers.
The messenger left at five in the evening. Meantime, we arranged with
difficulty for beasts for our further journey. Although we were assured
that no animals from the town could accompany us further than the first
_ranchito_ in the mountains, named San Bernardino, they assured us that
fresh animals could be obtained there for the remainder of the journey.
Going to the regular hotel in the village, we found the prices higher
than in Oaxaca or Puebla, and equal to those of a first-class hotel in
Mexico itself. As the landlady seemed to have no disposition to do aught
for us, we decided to look elsewhere. At a second so-called hotel we
found a single bed. At this point, a bystander suggested that Don Pedro
Barrios would probably supply us lodging; hastening to his house, I
secured a capital room, opening by one door directly onto the main road,
and by another, opposite, onto the la