though we had risen at
half-past-two. Our _arriero_ was the best we ever had; far from
sparing his good horse and grumbling at our speed, he was continually
complaining at our slowness. "Why don't the boys want to go fast?" he
would say. "Don't you want to get there at a good hour? Why do you go
so slowly?" And then, striking the horse, he trotted along at wonderful
speed. We reached Huautla at half-past-eight, stopping an hour to feed
our horses and to eat beans and _tortillas_. We then pushed on down the
slope, and out over the long ridge, passing the hut of our Cordoban
Aztec woman. It was the hottest hour of the day when we descended the
broad road, over the hot rocks, and saw Cuicatlan in the distance.
Thanks to our _arriero_, we drew up at Dona Serafina's when it was but
3:40 in the afternoon, having been upon the road eleven hours.

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XIX

HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS

(1900)

A short ride upon the train, through the hot and dusty valley, brought
us to the miserable station of San Antonio, from which, we had been
assured, a coach ran daily to Teotitlan del Camino; arrived at the
station, no stage was in sight, and we were told that it sometimes came
and sometimes not. Accordingly, leaving my companions at the station in
care of the baggage, I walked to the village, half a mile away, to see
what arrangements could be made for transportation. It was hot, and it
seemed difficult to arouse interest on the part of the town authorities.
Neither conveyance nor animals were to be had. Accordingly, a foot
messenger was sent to Teotitlan, which is a _cabecera_, asking that some
arrangement be made for transporting us. As there was no hurry, and it
would be some time before we could receive an answer, I sat under the
thatched roof in front of the town-house, resting and enjoying the
little breeze which had sprung up. Suddenly the belated coach, itself,
came into sight, bound for the station. Starting to mount, the driver
told me it was better for me to remain sitting comfortably in the shade,
and that he would pick up my companions, of whom, I told him, there
were three, and that I could join the company, as they passed. As
arrangements had already been made regarding the transportation of the
baggage by mules, the advice seemed good, and I remained where I was. A
long time passed, and when, at last, the coach arrived, it contained but
one passenger, a dignified _licenciado_. When I asked t