was after five before we reached San Bartolome. As we drew near the
village, we saw a magnificent double rainbow, brilliantly displayed
upon the eastern sky against a cloud of almost inky blackness. Looking
westward, as we entered the village, we saw the sun setting in a sea of
gold, between Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl. Watching this magnificent
sunset, we sat down before the old church, and almost instantly a
crowd gathered to see what the strangers might want. Don Romualdo, in
wandering through the village, found a _temascal_ in use, and hurrying
to us, led us to see the method of its use. It is a dome-shaped
structure, with an entrance so low that one must crawl upon his hands
and knees in entering; it is a sweat-bath, used for cleanliness and
health. A quick fire, built inside, heats it thoroughly, after which
water is thrown upon the hot stones to produce steam. Four persons, of
both sexes, were in the one in question, taking a sweat-bath. When we
returned to our companions, sitting before the church, an indian of the
village, accosting Don Romualdo, claimed to know him; he also claimed my
acquaintance, and reminded me that he had been one of the subjects I had
measured two years before in Tlaxcala. A score or more of natives had
gathered, in the moonlight, around our party. Having heard some indians
singing, we tried to get these to sing some native songs. Only after
Louis and Frank had sung some English songs, which were well received,
were we able to hear Aztec songs in exchange. After a long delay, we
were taken to the schoolhouse for supper and the night, and spent the
balance of the evening in taking down a native song, _The Tlaxcalteca_,
and witnessing a dance which accompanied it. A bed was made up for the
party by putting various benches and tables together.

[Illustration: TLAXCALAN HOUSE WITH TEMASCAL.]

[Illustration: THE MAPAHO IN USE; SAN JUAN ZAUTLA]

Most of the following day was spent in visiting in the village,
purchasing idols and in making notes on life and customs; at four
o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for Ixcotla. Near sunset we reached
the house of Quechol's uncle, old Isidro. Almost eighty years of age, he
was straight and lithe as a man of thirty. His house and all the lesser
buildings of his place were excellent and in fine condition. A flight
of steps led to the flat roof, from which we watched the sunset. In the
yard, were half a dozen hives for bees, made from the stocks of t