00 men had better be
secured at San Blas, which, although independent in government, adjoins
Tehuantepec. I suggested that it would be well to measure the women in
the court-yard of his palace; he, however, replied, "By no means; it
will be much better to go directly to the market, where the women are
gathered in great numbers; a _regidor_ will accompany you to arrange the
matter with your subjects."

Although convinced that his plan was bad, we arranged to begin work the
following morning; with instruments and _regidor_ we presented ourselves
in the market, picking out a suitable spot and preparing for work. Then
I told the _regidor_ to bring a subject. The market-place was crowded,
probably two or three hundred women being there gathered. Approaching
the nearest of them, the _regidor_ politely asked her to step up and
be measured. We were not, however, dealing with Triquis. The women of
Tehuantepec are certainly the heads of their houses; the men occupy
but an inferior position. Possibly, they are really larger than their
husbands, but, whether that be true or not, they give that impression to
the spectator. The lady indicated lost no time in assuring the
_regidor_ that she had no intention of being measured, and he returned
crest-fallen to report results. He met with no sympathy. I told him he
had been sent to bring the women, that my business was simply to measure
them; that if he would do his duty, I would do mine. He made two other
efforts, equally futile, and finally returning, said he thought an order
would be necessary. I told him, if he had not already an order I did not
know what an order was; that the _jefe_ had distinctly told me what he
was to do; that he was not doing it. He then said he had better go to
the palace a moment; would I kindly wait. I waited. He soon reappeared,
and started in bravely with a new subject, but was again repulsed.
Returning, he said that we had better go up to the palace and interview
the _jefe_ again. I replied that I had no time to spare; that we had
already lost two hours at the palace, waiting for the _jefe_ to appear,
and that I did not propose to lose more time; that he knew what I
expected, and must either do it, or I would return to my hotel. He
helplessly remarked that we had better see the _jefe_, whereupon
I picked up my instruments and departed to the hotel. Leaving my
instruments at the hotel, I decided, while matters were adjusting
themselves--for I had no thought