n great
pain, and could eat nothing, though making every effort to do so. Our
first thought was a shot in the head to put it out of misery, but the
old farrier wished to try a _remedio_. He did his best, and it looked as
if the animal might recover; it was plain, however, that he could not be
used again that afternoon. Accordingly, an extra horse was rented for
Mr. Lang's use. The remainder of the party was started on the road at
1:50, while I waited to give the _remedio_ a chance to operate and the
beast an opportunity to rest. At three I started, leading the sick
horse. We had a fine ride in the cool of the evening, over a mountain
road past the little ranch El Quemado, beyond which we found an immense
ascent. When we reached the summit, it was fast darkening, and I
pressed on as rapidly as the led horse would permit. Finally, I reached
Escondido at seven. Several large parties of packers, with their trains
of mules, had already settled for the night; camp-fires were burning.
Here and there drinking had been going on, and there was noise of loud
laughter, singing and dancing. Our party was already eating supper when
I arrived, and my own meal had been ordered. Shelter was supplied
us adjoining the house, where we spread our blankets and spent a
comfortable night. We were late in starting, and were not upon the road
until seven in the morning. We found the high-road most uninteresting.
For long distances we descended, passing a ranch and emerging finally
into a deep, hot gorge. By the time we reached Pichones we were tired,
hot and thirsty. There, however, we could get no water, for man or
beast, for love or money; suffering with thirst, the road seemed long to
the river near Totolapa, where we refreshed ourselves with water, but a
heavier road than ever had to be traversed. Much of the way we followed
the stream-bed, fording repeatedly; the remainder was through deep sand
and over rolling pebbles. Passing Juanico, on a high bank overlooking
the river, at noonday, we were delighted to strike upon a rock road,
high on the river bank. Keeping to this trail, passing from plantations
of bananas lying at the river level below us and catching many pretty
views of valley and of mountain, we at last reached Totolapa, completely
worn out with the journey and the heat. Here we rested until the heat of
the day should be past.

[Illustration: OUR PARTY LEAVING TEHUANTEPEC]

[Illustration: ZAPOTEC WOMEN AND GIRLS, TLACOLULA]

We