edge toward
which the gage is to be moved, Fig. 212. It should project about 1/8"
from the beam. If the spur be at all out of place, as it is likely to
be, the graduations on a beam will be unreliable. Hence it is best to
neglect them entirely when setting the gage and always to measure with
the rule from the head to the spur, Fig. 213.

[Illustration: Fig. 211. Marking-Gage.]

[Illustration: Fig. 212. Spur of Marking-Gage.]

In use the beam should be tilted forward, so as to slide on its
corner, Fig. 214. In this way the depth of the gage line can be
regulated. Ordinarily, the finer the line the better. The head must
always be kept firmly pressed against the edge of the wood so that the
spur will not run or jump away from its desired course. Care should
also be taken, except in rough pieces, to run gage lines no farther
than is necessary for the sake of the appearance of the finished work.
To secure accuracy, all gaging on the surface of wood, should be done
from the "working face" or "working edge."

[Illustration: Fig. 213. Setting a Marking-Gage.]

[Illustration: Fig. 214. Using the Marking-Gage.]

It is sometimes advisable, as in laying out chamfers, not to mark
their edges with a marking-gage, because the marks will show after the
chamfer is planed off. A pencil mark should be made instead. For
this purpose a pencil-gage may be made by removing the spur of a
marking-gage, and boring in its place a hole to receive a pencil stub
with a blunt point, or a small notch may be cut in the back end of
the beam, in which a pencil point is held while the gage is worked as
usual except that its position is reversed. For work requiring less
care, the pencil may be held in the manner usual in writing, the
middle finger serving as a guide, or a pair of pencil compasses may
be used, one leg serving as a guide. A special gage is made for gaging
curved lines, Fig. 215.

[Illustration: Fig. 215. Marking-Gage for Curves.]

The _cutting-gage_, Fig. 216, is similar to a marking-gage, except
that it has a knife-point inserted instead of a spur. It is very
useful in cutting up soft, thin wood even as thick as 1/4".

[Illustration: Fig. 216. Cutting-Gage.]

The _slitting-gage_ is used in a similar way, but is larger and has a
handle.

The _mortise-gage_, Fig. 217, is a marking-gage with two spurs,
with which two parallel lines can be drawn at once, as in laying out
mortises. One form is made entirely of steel having, instead