keep the mortise near the middle of the
stile.

_No. 45. A housed mortise-and-tenon_, Fig. 267, is one in which the
whole of the end of one member is let in for a short distance or
"housed" into the other. It is common in grill work and in railings.

_No. 46. A slip-joint or end or open mortise-and-tenon_, Fig. 267, is
what would remain if a mortised member were sawn off along one side
of the tenoned member. Window screens and other light frames such as
those for slates and for printing photographs have this joint. This
joint multiplied is used for small machine-made boxes, and is then
called _corner locking_.

DOVETAIL JOINTS

"Dovetail" refers to the shape of the projections of one member, when
looked at broadside. These projections are called dovetails, or merely
tails.

The projections on the other member are called tenons or pins, and the
spaces between both tails and tenons are called mortises or sockets.

_No. 47. A thru single dovetail_, Fig. 267, is similar to a slip-joint
except that instead of a tenon there is a dovetail. It is used in
window-sashes.

_No. 48. A thru-multiple dovetail_, Fig. 267, consists of a series of
alternate tails and tenons which fit one another closely. It is used
in tool-chests and in other strong as well as fine boxes.

To make a thru multiple dovetail joint, first square lines with a
sharp pencil around the ends of both members to locate the inner ends
of the dovetails and the pins, d e on X, Fig. 250, and l m on Y. The
distance of this line from the ends of each member may, if desired,
be slightly (1/32") greater than the thickness of the other member.
Divide this line, d e, on the member to be dovetailed, X, into as many
equal spaces as there are to be tails (dovetails). From the division
points of these spaces, a b c, to the right and left lay off one-half
of the greatest width of the mortises to be cut out, and also the same
distance from d and from e, as at f f f f and g g g g.

The strongest arrangement of dovetails is to make them equal in width
to the spaces between them, as in No. 48, p. 267. For the sake of
appearance they may be as much as four times as wide as the spaces,
but ordinarily should not be wider than 1-3/4".

Set the bevel-square so that it will fit the angle A B C, Fig. 250, p.
159, in a right angle triangle, the long side of which is 3" and the
short side 5/8". This is approximately an angle of 80 deg. or a little
more than one to five. From