her with bent straps on the ends of which are screws by which
they may be tightened. It is a very strong joint and is used where the
beams need lengthening as in false work or in long ladders and flag
poles.

_No. 2. A fished joint_, Fig. 264, is made by butting the squared
ends of two timbers together and placing short pieces of wood or
iron, called fish-plates, over the faces of the timbers and bolting or
spiking the whole firmly together. It is used for joining timbers in
the direction of their length, as in boat construction.

_No. 3._ In a _fished joint_, Fig. 264, keys are often inserted between
the fish-plate and beam at right angles to the bolts in order
to lessen the strain that comes upon the bolts when the joint is
subjected to tension. In wide pieces and for extra strength, as in
bridge work, the bolts may be staggered.

_Nos. 4, 5, 6 and 7._ _A scarf or spliced joint_, Fig. 264, is made by
joining together with flush surfaces the ends of two timbers in such a
way as to enable them to resist compression, as in No. 4; tension,
as in No. 5; both, as in No. 6, where the scarf is tabled; or cross
strain as in No. 7. No. 4 is used in house sills and in splicing out
short posts, Nos. 5 and 6 in open frame work. _No. 7_ with or without
the fish-plate, is used in boats and canoes, and is sometimes called
a boat-builder's joint, to distinguish it from No. 4, a carpenter's
joint. A joint to resist cross strain is stronger when scarfed in
the direction of the strain than across it. No. 7 is the plan, not
elevation, of a joint to receive vertical cross strain.

BUTT JOINTS

_No. 8. A doweled butt-joint_, Fig. 264, is made by inserting, with
glue, dowel-pins into holes bored into the two members. The end of one
member is butted against the face or edge of the other. It is used in
cabinet-making where the presence of nails would be unseemly.

[Illustration: Fig. 246. Lay-out by Thru Dowling.]

In a doweled butt-joint the dowels may go clear thru the outside
member, and be finished as buttons on the outside, where they show.
To lay out this joint mark near the ends of the edges of the abutting
member, X, Fig. 246, center-lines A B. Draw on the other member Y, a
sharp pencil-line to which when the lines AB on X are fitted, X will
be in its proper place. Carry the line around to the other side of Y
and locate on it the proper centers for the dowel-holes E and F. Then
fasten on the end of X a handscrew in such a way