ly dressing up both pieces to
be joined, locate accurately with a knife point, on the member to be
dadoed, called X, one side of the dado, and square across the piece
with a try-square and knife. Then locate the other side of the dado by
placing, if possible, the proper part of the other member, called
Y, close to the line drawn. If this method of superposition is not
possible, locate by measurement. Mark, with a knife point, on X, the
thickness thus obtained. Square both these lines as far across the
edges of X as Y is to be inserted. Gage to the required depth on both
edges with the marking-gage.

To cut the joint: First make with the knife a triangular groove on the
waste side of each line, as indicated in Fig. 91, p. 66, and starting
in the grooves thus made, saw with the back-saw to the gaged lines
on both edges. The waste may now be taken out either with a chisel or
with a router, Fig. 122, p. 83. The second member, Y, should just fit
into a dado thus made, but if the joint is too tight, the cheeks of
the dado may be pared with a chisel. In delicate work it is often wise
not to saw at all, but to use only the knife and chisel.

_No. 26. A dado and rabbet_, Fig. 266, is made by cutting a dado in
one member, X, and a rabbet on the other, Y, in such a way that the
projecting parts of both members will fit tight in the returns of
the other member. It is used in boxes and gives plenty of surface for
gluing.

_No. 27. A dado, tongue and rabbet_, Fig. 266, is a compound joint,
made by cutting a rabbet on one member, Y, and then a dado in this
rabbet, into which fits a tongue of the other member, X. It is used in
machine-made drawers.

_No. 28. A dovetail dado or gain_, Fig. 266, is made by cutting one or
both of the sides of the infitting member, Y, on an angle so that it
has to be slid into place and cannot be pulled out sidewise. It is
used in book-cases and similar work, in which the shelves are fixed.

To make this joint, first lay out the dovetail on the member to be
inserted, called Y, thus: Across one end square a line (A B, No.
28), at the depth to which this member is to be dadoed in. Set the
bevel-square at the proper angle for a dovetail, Fig. 250. Score this
angle on the edges of the member, as at C D. Cut a groove with a knife
on the waste side of A B. Saw to the depth A C, and chisel out the
interior angle A C D.

Then lay out the other member, X, thus: mark with the knife the proper
place for the f