FREE BOOKS

Author's List




PREV.   NEXT  
|<   110   111   112   113   114   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122   123   124   125   126   127   128   129   130   131   132   133   134  
135   136   137   138   139   140   141   142   143   144   145   146   147   148   149   150   151   152   153   154   155   156   157   158   159   >>   >|  
n the separate legs as well, to brace them apart and to keep them from bending under the pressure. These methods have the advantage that they are speedy, since all the pieces go together at once; but unless the pieces fit exactly the joints will not close. Another method is to glue and clamp the pieces of the taboret together two by two, using blocks as shown in Fig. 258, _a_. Care should be taken to put the pressure of the handscrews as far out as possible so as to be sure that the outside of the joint closes. This method has the advantage that, as only one joint is glued at a time, the work can be done more deliberately. Moreover, if when three pairs of a six-sided taboret are together, the other three joints do not fit exactly, they can then be refitted. Another method is to glue pieces of soft wood on the exterior of each pieces as shown in Fig. 258, _c_. These blocks should be of such shape that the opposite sides of each pair are parallel. When the glue is dry, they are used as corners on which to clamp the handscrews. This method has the disadvantage that the blocks may break loose at a critical moment. [Illustration: Fig. 257. One Method of Gluing up a Six-Sided Taboret.] In addition to any of these methods of tightening the joints, to make sure that the ends of the joints close tight, pinch-dogs, Fig. 178, p. 103, may be driven into the end grain, and corrugated fasteners, Fig. 228, p. 125, also driven into the ends, make the joint quite secure. _No. 53. A doweled miter_, Fig. 268, is one in which one or more dowels are inserted and glued into holes bored into the beveled edges. It may be used instead of nails, as in large picture frames. _No. 54. A spline or tongue miter_, Fig. 268, is one which has a spline or tongue inserted at right angles to the joint. Since it furnishes more gluing surface, it is stronger than a plain miter. _No. 55. A slip-feather or slip-key miter_, Fig. 268, is one which is strengthened by a slip of hardwood glued into a saw kerf cut across the mitered angle. It is used in picture-frames and in boxes. _No. 56. A slip-dovetail miter_, Fig. 268, is one in which a trapezoidal shaped key is inserted in a dovetail socket cut straight across the miter. When dressed off, it gives the appearance of a dovetail on each face. It is used for the same purpose as a spline miter. _No. 57. A double dovetail keyed miter_, Fig. 268, is one in which a double dovetail key made of hard
PREV.   NEXT  
|<   110   111   112   113   114   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122   123   124   125   126   127   128   129   130   131   132   133   134  
135   136   137   138   139   140   141   142   143   144   145   146   147   148   149   150   151   152   153   154   155   156   157   158   159   >>   >|  



Top keywords:

pieces

 

dovetail

 

joints

 

method

 

blocks

 

spline

 
inserted
 

tongue

 
picture
 
frames

handscrews

 
advantage
 
double
 

methods

 
driven
 

pressure

 
taboret
 

Another

 
beveled
 

fasteners


secure

 
dowels
 

corrugated

 

doweled

 

hardwood

 

dressed

 

straight

 

socket

 

trapezoidal

 

shaped


appearance

 

purpose

 

gluing

 
surface
 
stronger
 

furnishes

 

angles

 

mitered

 

strengthened

 

feather


closes

 

Moreover

 
deliberately
 

separate

 
bending
 
speedy
 

Method

 
Gluing
 
critical
 

moment