FREE BOOKS

Author's List




PREV.   NEXT  
|<   99   100   101   102   103   104   105   106   107   108   109   110   111   112   113   114   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122   123  
124   125   126   127   128   129   130   131   132   133   134   135   136   137   138   139   140   141   142   143   144   145   146   147   148   >>   >|  
his joint is used occasionally in picture-frames. _No. 18. A dovetail halving or lap-dovetail_, Fig. 265, is a middle-lap joint with the pin made dovetail in shape, and is thus better able to resist tension. It is used for strong tee joints. _No. 19. A beveled halving_, Fig. 265, is made like a middle-lap joint except that the inner end of the upper member is thinner so that the adjoining cheeks are beveled. It is very strong when loaded above. It was formerly used in house framing. MODIFIED HALVING JOINTS _No. 20. A notched joint_, Fig. 265, is made by cutting out a portion of one timber. It is used where it is desired to reduce the height occupied by the upper timber. Joists are notched on to wall plates. _No. 21. A checked joint or double notch_, Fig. 265, is made by cutting out notches from both the timbers so as to engage each other. It is used where a single notch would weaken one member too much. _No. 22. A cogged or corked or caulked joint_, Fig. 265, is made by cutting out only parts of the notch on the lower piece, leaving a "cog" uncut. From the upper piece a notch is cut only wide enough to receive the cog. A cogged joint is stronger than a notched because the upper beam is not weakened at its point of support. It is used in heavy framing. _No. 23. A forked tenon joint_, Fig. 265, is made by cutting a fork in the end of one member, and notching the other member to fit into the fork, so that neither piece can slip. It is used in knock-down furniture and in connecting a muntin to a rail, where it is desired that the muntin should run thru and also that the rail be continuous. _No. 24. A rabbet or rebate or ledge joint_, Fig. 266, is made by cutting out a portion of the side or end of a board or timber X to receive the end or side of another, Y. It may then be nailed from either the side or end or from both. The neatest way in small boxes is from the end, or better still it may be only glued. _No. 25. A dado or grooved joint_, Fig. 266, is made by cutting in one member a groove into which the end or edge of the other member fits. Properly speaking a groove runs with the grain, a dado across it, so that the bottom of a drawer is inserted in a groove while the back of the drawer is inserted in a dado. Where the whole of the end of one member is let into the other, such a dado is also called a housed dado. Treads of stairs are housed into string boards. To lay out a dado joint: After careful
PREV.   NEXT  
|<   99   100   101   102   103   104   105   106   107   108   109   110   111   112   113   114   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122   123  
124   125   126   127   128   129   130   131   132   133   134   135   136   137   138   139   140   141   142   143   144   145   146   147   148   >>   >|  



Top keywords:

member

 

cutting

 

notched

 

timber

 

dovetail

 

groove

 

beveled

 

framing

 
desired
 

drawer


cogged

 

strong

 
portion
 
inserted
 

receive

 

housed

 

middle

 

muntin

 

halving

 

string


rebate
 

rabbet

 

forked

 
furniture
 

connecting

 

notching

 

continuous

 

bottom

 

speaking

 

Properly


boards

 

grooved

 

neatest

 
called
 

nailed

 
stairs
 

careful

 
Treads
 
loaded
 

thinner


adjoining
 

cheeks

 
reduce
 

height

 

occupied

 

JOINTS

 

MODIFIED

 

HALVING

 
frames
 

picture