he hill upon the
crest of which we were travelling. The one slope, cold and damp, was
densely forested with trees, loaded with air-plants and orchids. The
other slope, warmer and drier, was far less heavily grown, and in large
part, with pines. Among the plants noticed by the roadside was a species
of pinguicula which was very common on damp clay-cuttings. Its leaves
form a close, flat rosette upon the ground, from which a slender stalk
rises, with a a single crimson flower. When we reached the final descent
to the town, we caught the full force of the cold, mist-laden wind,
which struck our faces and made us shiver. Yet it was on this very
slope, so frequently cold and wet, that the oaks, covered with
air-plants and blooming orchids, were at their finest. Ferns in
astonishing variety, from the most delicate, through giant herbaceous
forms, to magnificent tree-ferns; lycopods of several species, and
selaginellas, in tufts, covered the slopes; and great banks of begonias,
in fine bloom, showed themselves. Before we reached the village we were
forced to dismount, on account of the slippery condition of the road,
and entered town on foot.

In our other journey Ocotopec made no impression on us. It is really one
of the most picturesque and interesting of the Mixe towns. It is built
upon a slope, which is cut and built into a series of little terraced
gardens; clusters or groups of houses stand on the terraces. The houses
are rectangular, built of adobe brick and heavy thatch, with a thick
comb of thatch riding the ridge. Unlike most Mixe churches, the church
at Ocotopec is entire, and in good condition. It is built of stone. The
town is purely Indian, and the type is the best we had seen. Had there
been light for photographing, we should have stopped there and done our
work, instead of passing on to Ixcuintepec. As it was, we spent the
night, and were well treated. Leaving early in the morning, we
hurried to Quezaltepec for dinner, the road being better than we had
anticipated. The town is prettily distributed upon a curved crest; the
houses are neat, built of adobe or of poles daubed with mud. Much fruit
is grown here, and coffee is an important crop. In almost every yard
mats were spread out, on which coffee was drying, or being sorted by
people squatting on the ground. Considerable cotton is woven at this
point.

Leaving at 3:40, the evening ride through the forest was magnificent.
The flora was such as we have before