pronounced in a voice half-choked with passion the word
"Ghiaour," (infidel): in answer to which, I politely told him, (as I was
a good Turkish scholar,) to mind his own business, and that I was rather
inclined to consider him the greater infidel of the two. He looked both
surprised and vexed at this, but did not attempt to retort. As to the
young Arab, he proved himself to be a man of sense; for, contenting
himself with smiling at his infuriated attendant, he descended to the
cabin of his odalisques, from whence he did not emerge during the
remainder of our voyage. I did not again see him, and never knew who was
the Mussulman, so handsome and at the same time so little fanatical.

The strait through which we had navigated all day, gradually widened as
we advanced; the shores as they receded were covered with opal tints;
the vessel began to roll, and we entered the sea of Marmora. At sunset
the Mussulmans with whom the deck was crowded collected in groups, and
devoutly said their evening prayer. Their countenances were wrapped in
deep devotion, and they appeared to take no notice of the satirical
smiles, which the strangeness of their attitudes called forth from
several unreflecting travellers, who, by wanting in respect for the
usages of the countries through which they were passing, lowered
themselves immensely in the estimation of the inhabitants. The
irritation excited by the ill-timed railleries of such foolish persons,
is no doubt one of the chief causes of the hatred in which Christians
are held in Turkey. Surely nothing could be less calculated to excite
mockery, than the sight of the Mussulman travellers at their evening
devotions; besides, be it had in mind, that upon this Christian vessel,
scarcely a Christian perhaps was thinking of his God, while not a single
Mahometan was to be seen unengaged in prayer, as the sun sunk below the
horizon.

The following morning I was early upon deck. The sun had not yet risen,
and the air was fresh and invigorating; while upon the white, heavy,
oily sea, was a slight fog, which the breeze was dispersing in flakes.
Around us a quantity of porpoises were either splashing in the midst of
the waves or floating like buoys upon the surface. The most profound
silence reigned upon the deck of the steamer. Wet with the night-dews,
the half-slumbering seamen of the watch were seated in a circle near the
funnel; while numberless Turks, rolled up in their yellow coverlets
striped with