d. An instance of word-repetition,
common in Hawaiian poetry.]

[Footnote 90: _Wai-kaloa_. A cool wind that Wows at Lihue,
Kauai]

[Footnote 91: _Alina_. A scar, or other mark of disfigurement,
a moral blemish. In ancient times lovers inflicted injuries
on themselves to prove devotion.]

The short skirt, _pa-u_, was the most important piece of
attire worn by the Hawaiian female. As an article of daily
wear it represented many stages of evolution beyond the
primitive fig-leaf, being fabricated from a great variety of
[Page 50] materials furnished by the garden of nature. In its simplest
terms the pa-u was a mere fringe of vegetable fibers. When
placed as the shield of modesty about the loins of a woman of
rank, or when used as the full-dress costume of a dancing
girl on a ceremonious occasion, it took on more elaborate
forms, and was frequently of _tapa_, a fabric the finest
specimens of which would not have shamed the wardrobe of an
empress.

In the costuming of the hula girl the same variety obtained
as in the dress of a woman of rank. Sometimes her pa-u would
be only a close-set fringe of ribbons stripped from the bark
of the hibiscus (_hau_), the _ti_ leaf or banana fiber, or a
fine rush, strung upon a thong to encircle the waist. In its
most elaborate and formal style the pa-u consisted of a strip
of fine tapa several yards long and of width to reach nearly
to the knees. It was often delicately tinted or printed, as
to its outer part, with stamped figures. The part of the tapa
skirt thus printed, like the outer, decorative one in a set
of tapa bed-sheets, was termed the _kilohana_.

The pa-u worn by the danseuse, when of tapa, was often of
such volume as to balloon like the skirt of a coryphee. To
put it on was quite an art, and on that account, if not on
the score of modesty, a portion of the halau, was screened
off and devoted to the use of the females as a dressing room,
being known as the _unu-lau-koa_, and to this place they
repaired as soon as the kumu gave the signal for dressing.

The hula pa-u of the women was w