, with which the whole of the exterior
is covered, reminds us precisely of those numerous little wood-cut figures,
chiefly pastoral, which we see in the borders of printed missals of the
same period. The taste which prevails in them is half French and half
Flemish. Not so is the character of the plaster figures which cover the
_left_ side on entering. These, my friend, are no less than the
representation of the procession of Henry VIII. and Francis I. to the
famous CHAMP DE DRAP D'OR: of which Montfaucon[63] has published
engravings. Having carefully examined this very curious relic, of the
beginning of the sixteenth century, I have no hesitation in pronouncing the
copy of Montfaucon (or rather of the artist employed by him) to be most
egregiously faithless. I visited it again and again, considering it to be
worth all the "huge clocks" in Rouen put together. I hardly know how to
take you from this interesting spot--from this exhibition of beautiful old
art--especially too when I consider that Francis himself once occupied the
mansion, and held a Council here, with both English and French; that his
bugles once sounded from beneath the gate way, and that his goblets once
sparkled upon the chestnut tables of the great hall. I do hope and trust
that the Royal Academy of Rouen, will not suffer this architectural relic
to perish, without leaving behind a substantial and faithful representation
of it.[64]

While upon the subject of ancient edifices, let me return; and, crossing
the _Rue de la Grosse Horloge_, contrive to place you in the centre of the
square which is formed by the PALAIS DE JUSTICE. The inhabitants consider
this building as the principal _lion_ in their city. It has indeed claims
to notice and admiration, but will not bear the severe scrutiny of a critic
in Gothic architecture. It was partly erected by Louis XII. at the entreaty
of the provincial States, through the interest of the famous Cardinal
d'Amboise, and partly by Francis I. This building precisely marks the
restoration of Gothic taste in France, and the peculiar style of
architecture which prevailed in the reign of Francis I. To say the truth,
this style, however sparkling and imposing, is objectionable in many
respects: for it is, in the first place, neither pure Gothic nor pure
Grecian--but an injudicious mixture of both. Greek arabesque borders are
running up the sides of a portal terminating in a Gothic arch; and the
Gothic ornaments themselves are